Raise a Glass with Four Seasons

Toasts of revelry. Toasts of remembrance. Toasts to mark the closing of one year and the beginning of a new one. No matter the reason you raise your glass, the moment – and the people you’re sharing it with – should be honoured by a memorable libation. At Four Seasons, both the experiences and the beverages come in equally impressive measure. So drink to cherished time with your loved ones in one of these outstanding epicurean settings, and ring in the new year sipping like a sommelier.

Nvc 169 970x540

Experience the grape-to-glass process

Wine lovers and those still developing their palates will feel equally at home at the new Four Seasons Resort and Residences Napa Valley. In acres of rolling hills and scenic grapevines in historic Calistoga, you’ll find yourself in the very heart of a working winery for a one-of-a-kind, immersive grape-to-glass experience. From harvesting to sorting to ageing to tasting, you’ll have a front-row seat for the entire winemaking process at Elusa Winery, just steps from your guest room, suite or private villa.

Winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown takes a minimalist approach to crafting Elusa’s bold Cabernet Sauvignons, which allows the unique terroir of the Calistoga American Viticultural Area to shine through in every sip. The same appreciation of terroir-driven wine can be seen throughout the Resort’s curated wine list, including selections of everyone’s festive favourite: Champagne. Morgan Gray, CMS Advanced Sommelier at the Resort, recommends a bottle of Pierre Gimonnet & Fils for your next féte. “Located in Cuis Premier Cru in the Côte de Blancs of the Champagne region in France, Pierre Gimonnet & Fils really focuses on the key grape of that subregion – Chardonnay. Precise, focused and incredibly expressive, it’s the perfect Champagne to enjoy with a nice holiday meal or just relaxing by the fireplace,” Gray says. “We also carry their 2014 Special Club, which is their top bottling from key sites only made in special vintages.”

Explore Elusa Winery in Napa

Mve 257 970x540

A secluded cellar in Megève

With its gabled chalets, medieval cobblestone streets and the snow-capped Mont d’Arbois front and centre, the charm factor in Megève is overwhelmingly high. But the delights of this picturesque French alpine village aren’t limited to the great outdoors. At Four Seasons Hotel Megève, a glass-and-metal spiral staircase leads down to one of the most impressive wine collections in the Haute-Savoie region. Housing 15,000 bottles – including all the Edmond de Rothschild Heritage vintages, such as the legendary 1869, 1898 and 1920 vintages of Château Lafite – the Wine Cellar provides an exclusive and intimate setting for a wine tasting for you and your guests. Sample some of the finest wines from France and beyond, paired with the rich and unexpected flavours of Michelin-starred chef Annie-Sophie Pic’s Savoyard menu at the Resort’s newest restaurant, La Dame de Pic – Le 1920.

A seat beneath the Wine Cellar’s glass chandelier can make any celebration feel extraordinary, and the perfect bottle for the occasion is likely within arm’s reach. “One of my favourite party wines is a Château-Chalon with a few years in the bottle,” says Paz Levinson, Head Executive Sommelier. “They are not only wines with aromas reminiscent of autumn and mushrooms, but they are also extraordinary to accompany festive dishes such as poultry, foie gras, truffles, Comté and Beaufort.” When it comes to New Year’s Eve, Levinson says you can’t go wrong with a Champagne from Krug or Salón: “They both pair well with caviar, but also truffles, cheeses and oysters.”

Sip in Style in Megève

Kyo 757 970x540

Taste test in Kyoto

Certain flavours or aromas can transport us to a specific place and time. In a city like Kyoto, where buildings and traditions seem untouched by the passing of hundreds of years, the connection feels even closer. Sipping sake – a Japanese wine made from fermented rice – while looking out onto the same 12th-century Shakusui-en pond garden that was written about in the Japanese epic Tale of the Heiki, is one of those transportive moments. The sleek and airy Sukiya-style tea house and lounge at Four Seasons Hotel Kyoto sits within the Hotel’s 800-year-old pond garden and serves local sweets, tea, Champagne and, of course, sake.

During the Heian Period – the same period when the pond garden was created – sake was consumed during ceremonies, celebrations and drinking games. Follow the pathway through the garden and cross the glass bridge to discover a modern take on that tradition at Fuju. Opt for the Kyoto Sake Tasting Trio to sample the smooth flavours of three local sakes selected by the Hotel’s Sake Sommelier, or try a taste test to discover how the time-honoured beverage contrasts with the bubbly effervescence of Champagne, its Western counterpart.

Sip sake in Kyoto

Mau 2157 970x540

Unexpected experiences in Maui

Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea boasts an incredibly robust team of next-generation sommeliers – or somms, as they are often called – with nearly 20 introductory, certified and advanced sommeliers working across the property. Led by Resort Sommelier Brendan O’Leary, the team works to create emotional connections through wine experiences, providing guests with lifelong memories as they taste thoughtful and personalized selections both on-property as well as during unforgettable culinary outings – for example, the Fire & Wine experience pairs guest with Yeshua Goodman, an advanced sommelier and owner of Kiawe Outdoor, for a next-level tour of Maui’s tastes and tales that includes a helicopter tour of the island; an exclusive visit to Haiku House, a former sugar plantation; and a locally sourced dinner cooked over an open flame by Goodman and paired with wines you discover during an interactive blind tasting.

The wine experiences continue for guests staying in the Resort’s three Elite Suites, offering access to some of the world’s most hard-to-find bottles through an in-suite wine bar featuring an exclusive wine list curated by Christian Navarro, president and principal of Wally’s Wine & Spirits. O’Leary and his Resort team can also curate becspoke Ultimate Pairing Dinners, complete with menus tailored to each guest’s personal wine preferences. As for O’Leary, his tastes tend to lean Italian: “If I had to pick one wine out of the hundreds that we carry, it’s La Scolca Gavi dei Gavi Black Label,” he says. “It’s an amazing food wine with alpine acidity and minerality, but it’s also a great stand-alone glass as well. The region of Piemonte, Italy, where Cortese (the grape in Gavi) is grown, produces my favourite reds as well – the Gaja Sperss Barolo is a great example.”

For festive season, however, his current drink of choice might be a surprise – it isn’t a glass of wine.

“We’re rolling out a holiday cocktail called ‘Harvest Moon.’ It’s a rye-based cocktail with chai tea, Cardamaro, fresh ginger, honey, lemon and fresh-pressed apple cider,” he says. “It comes with an apple round garnish with star anise, making it look like a snowflake. All the flavours and aromas are holiday baking spices. The sensory experience reminds me of putting ornaments on the family tree growing up.”

Find a new favourite in Maui

Ghf 1106 970x540

Rare rosé in French Riviera

Rosé may have become one of the trendiest wines over the last few years, but its origins are far from new. Many of the first wines ever recorded, in fact, were rosé, which gets its rosy hue when the skin of red grapes sit in contact with the juice for only a short period of time. At Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat, A Four Seasons Hotel, you’ll enjoy rare access to one of the French Riviera’s most prestigious producers, Domaines Ott. A helicopter will carry you to Château de Selle, one of the three storied estates of Domaines Ott, where you’ll sip the vineyard’s distinguished rosé as you learn about its history and join the winemakers for a behind-the-scenes look at the viniculture cycle. Depending on the time of year, you might even be able to help with the harvest. Stop by the tasting room to sample vintage rosés and red wines, then end your visit with a picnic prepared by the Hotel’s Michelin-starred chef – and a limited-edition vintage from the Château de Selle to take home.

Looking for a rosé alternative? Head Sommelier Joël Rolland can mine the Hotel’s 600-label collection for something to fit your mood and taste in a way that is decidedly French. “I’d say 99.9% of our wines are French,” he says. “Creating a local wine experience is very important for our guests. They’re arriving from all over the world, and they want to drink France.” Some of Rolland’s personal favourite wines of the region include whites from Burgundy and the Loire Valley and reds from Burgundy and the Rhône.

Toast vintage rosé in Cap-Ferrat

YOUR JOURNEY BEGINS HERE

Where will your next sip take you?

Nvc 025 1280x480

A New Season in Napa: Fall Fashion
Inspired by Wine Country

California’s Napa Valley is ideally suited for Cabernet Sauvignon grapes: The region offers a sunny, warm climate; good drainage; and volcanic soils that add an earthy, rich complexity to its wines. At the new Four Seasons Resort and Residences Napa Valley, where the vineyard is protected by the Palisades mountains and oak-covered hills, world-class winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown and his team at the on-site Elusa Winery have carefully designed and planted it to intensify the grapes’ flavour. Take part in the winemaking process, from harvesting grapes to blending and ageing the wine, or learn about Calistoga’s unique terroir during a tasting session – the Resort provides the most complete grape-to-glass experience in Napa.

“The moment guests step foot on the property, they are welcomed into an extraordinary wine country oasis,” says General Manager Mehdi Eftekari. “Awe-inspiring views of the vineyards and Palisades Mountains are an idyllic backdrop to enriching experiences at TRUSS Restaurant + Bar and Elusa Winery. In guests’ suites, the vines are mere inches from their terraces and balconies.”


The dramatic scenery of North America’s wine capital – and the Resort, set to open later this year – also provide an idyllic background for the season’s most stylish new fashions. The looks pair perfectly with the Resort’s natural colour palette, rich textures and easy elegance.

Explore Napa Valley with Four Seasons

2021 Fs Fall Fashion V2 1400x2000

The Resort spreads across 22.5 acres (9 hectares), offering dramatic scenery and viticultural discovery at every turn. It’s a natural hideaway for relaxation and indulgence, framed by picturesque forests and majestic mountains.

Left to right: On Julia: Genny top and skirt; Alexander McQueen boots. On Miki: Reem Acra dress. On Breanna: Valentino gown, Sethi Couture earrings.

2021 Fs Fall Fashion Collage1 1152x749

Make the most of Napa’s idyllic setting with a swim in the Resort’s two outdoor pools – the adults-only pool overlooks the vineyard, while the Resort Pool features shallow splashing areas that are perfect for families. Or celebrate the sunshine with elevated Napa cuisine at the modern TRUSS Restaurant + Bar or Cal-Mexican favourites at open-air Campo Poolside.

Left image, left to right: On Julia: Stella McCartney dress and boots; JYE ring (index finger); Sethi Couture ring (middle finger); Guess bag. On Miki: Gucci cardigan, jumpsuit and sandals; Wolford undergarments; Alexander McQueen clutch; Fabergé necklace and rings. On Breanna: Alyson Eastman dress; Chelsea Paris shoes; Tiffany & Co. necklace; Grace Lee ring (index finger); Katkim rings (ring fingers); Vhernier pink gold and jade bracelet; Sethi Couture bangles (near hand); JYE bangle (near sleeve). Right image: On Breanna: Reem Acra dress; JYE earrings.

Taste the Flavours of Napa

2021 Fs Fall Fashion 1152x749

Elusa winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown is celebrated for his non-interventionalist approach, letting the vineyard’s character shine. It’s a style that has paid off: Renowned wine critic Robert Parker Jr. has awarded him 23 perfect 100-point scores for his Cabernet Sauvignon projects over the past decade.

Left to right: On Breanna: Chloé coat, skirt, top and boots; Adeam earrings and ring. On Miki: Chloé poncho; Partow dress; Michael Kors Collection skirt; JYE ring (right hand); Vhernier ring (left hand). On Julia: Chloé jumper and skirt; Brunello Cucinelli boots; Sethi Couture necklaces, rings and earrings.

Savour Napa Valley wines

2021 Fs Fall Fashion Image 1152x749

Spa Talisa celebrates Napa’s rich vineyard heritage with treatments incorporating grape seeds – long recognized for their potent antioxidants and skin-pleasing polyphenols, flavonoids and anthocyanins. Try an exfoliating scrub of sugar and grape seeds to give your skin a soft, luminous glow. “Spa Talisa is rooted in Calistoga’s 150-year history as a wellness destination,” says Eftekari. “Guests can enjoy holistic treatments and private patios, or head to the steam decks for a locally-inspired steam experience.”

On Breanna: Gucci jacket, vest and trousers; Tory Burch ring.

Relax at Spa Talisa

2021 Fs Fall Fashion Collage3 1152x749

Century-old olive trees dot the Resort, adding character to the rustic yet elegant ambience indoors and out. Acres of vineyards, farmhouse-chic villas and romantic private terraces: It’s California wine country at its finest.

Left image: On Breanna: Brunello Cucinelli dress and cardigan; Katkim earring; Sethi Couture band (left hand) and stacked rings (right hand); Tiffany & Co. ring (middle finger). Right image, left to right: On Breanna: Dolce & Gabbana jacket, skirt and earrings; Akris top; Dior sunglasses. On Julia: Prada dress, top and stole; Tory Burch necklace; Katkim earring and rings (index and middle fingers); Grace Lee ring (index finger); Aaron Basha ring (right hand) and beaded bracelet; Vhernier gold and carnelian bracelet; Dior pearl necklace worn as bracelet; Stella McCartney sunglasses. On Miki: Altuzarra dress; Tory Burch top; Dior scarf; Max Mara head scarf; Dolce & Gabbana earrings; Alexander McQueen sunglasses.

2021 Fs Fall Fashion Collage4 1152x749

The Resort’s Vineyard Barn – with lofty beamed ceilings and prime views of the vines – is a coveted venue for weddings and events. Say “I do” in the vineyard, or gather with friends and family for a dinner party in The Cork Room, with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the winery.

Left image: On Miki: Chanel coat, boots and earrings; Grace Lee ring (index finger); Sethi Couture rings (middle finger). Right image: On Julia: Harry Winston earrings, necklace, brooch, ring and cuff; Marina Moscone pajama shirt.

Photographer: Eric Ray Davidson

Stylist: Julie Matos

Assistant Stylists: Alyson Eastman and Johanna Houska

Makeup: Karina Moore

Hair: James Harris Jr.

YOUR JOURNEY BEGINS HERE

Where will you explore next?

Nvc 025 1280x480

Sommelier Cheat Sheet: A Toast to Pét-Nat and Other Under-the-Radar Wines

Champagne may be the world’s most famous sparkling wine, but it wasn’t the first. Long before the meticulous blending and ageing of méthode champenoise, winemakers were using the méthode ancestrale to make naturally effervescent wines known in France as pétillant naturel or, colloquially, pét-nat. These fresh and unpretentious sparklers are now made across the winemaking world, from France’s Loire Valley to New York’s Finger Lakes, from Spain to Sonoma – and from just about every grape.

It should come as no surprise then that they’ve gained a cult-like following among adventurous wine lovers for their fruit-forward profiles, gentle carbonation, easy-drinking style and sense of small-batch “discovery.” Here, Four Seasons’ own sommeliers tell us why they love pét-nat – and the other wines they reach for at Christmas, New Year’s and beyond.


Wine at FS Palm Beach

Palm Beach: Jessica Altieri’s Cheat Sheet

Newly reopened after a major renovation by designer Martin Brudnizki, Four Seasons Resort Palm Beach is more than just a place to see and be seen – it’s a oenophile’s dream. Enter sommelier, Instagram influencer and wine podcaster Jessica Altieri, who’ll be serving up plenty of pét-nats at the Resort’s new restaurant, Florie’s, in partnership with Michelin-starred Argentine chef Mauro Colagreco. “Pét-nat is a product of the easiest method by which to get bubbles into a wine, and it was the first way sparkling wine was produced – hence the name méthode ancestrale,” says Altieri, who loves sourcing effervescent Mauzac pét-nats from Limoux and Gaillac in the south of France, as well as crisp whites from the Loire Valley. “I like to call it Champagne’s hip younger sibling; it’s ideal with creamy cheeses like chèvre or a scrumptious charcuterie board.”

I like to call it Champagne’s hip younger sibling; it’s ideal with creamy cheeses like chèvre or a scrumptious charcuterie board. – Jessica Altieri

As the winter holidays approach, Altieri also recommends a lesser-known wine: Gemischter Satz from Viennese winemaker Fritz Wieninger, whose 128 acres (52 hectares) are run by 10 members of his family. “Vienna is the only metropolis worldwide with extensive wine-growing areas and vineyards within the city boundaries,” she says. The Viennese wine tradition is as old as the city itself, with the first recorded vineyards dating back to 1132. “In 18th-century Vienna, under the reign of Maria Theresia and her son Josef II, wine growing was heavily encouraged, with huge wine cellars running underneath the inner city.”

The Gemischter Satz is “perfect for New Year’s Eve,” and usually shared in Austrian heurigen (wine taverns) at celebratory moments. “A pairing to complement the brightness of this wine would be some grilled pork sausage and traditional Austrian cold cuts,” Altieri says. “I will never forget how it refreshed my palate after each bite while sitting with Fritz Wieninger in the vineyard.”


Wine and outdoors at FS Jackson Hole

Jackson Hole: Anthony Puccia’s Cheat Sheet

“Some of the best things in the wine world are also the simplest,” says Anthony Puccia, sommelier at Four Seasons Resort and Residences Jackson Hole. “That’s why I love pét-nat. The alcohol content is a little bit lower, and they always have a bit of nice sediment because they’re made using the oldest sparkling wine method in the world.” Puccia, a former Alaskan heli-ski guide and cellar master at Jackson Hole Winery, says the Resort will begin serving pét-nat soon. At the moment, he recommends the Sparkling Pinot Meunier from Donkey & Goat, made with grapes from the Russian River Valley in Sonoma. The urban winery in Berkeley, California, is “at the forefront of the pét-nat movement,” he says.

Some of the best things in the wine world are also the simplest. – Anthony Puccia

Another of Puccia’s favourite wines for the holiday season is equally unexpected. “We just started sourcing Arnot-Roberts El Dorado Gamay Noir, and I could not be happier,” he says – high praise from someone who’s gone on tasting trips to France every year for more than a decade. “Arnot-Roberts makes some of the best cult wines in California, and this particular one is big, beautiful and juicy – such a refreshing pairing with holiday meals.” The next time you find yourself in Jackson Hole, try it with raclette cheese and alpine charcuterie – “It’s perfect with lighter game meats” – in the slope-side Ascent Lounge, where a wood-burning fire casts a warm glow.


FS Toronto

Toronto: Jeremy Geyer’s Cheat Sheet

“We usually feature at least one pét-nat, and currently we have Xarel-lo from Spain and Loureiro from Portugal,” says Jeremy Geyer, sommelier and General Manager of Café Boulud and d|bar at Four Seasons Hotel Toronto. He recommends pairing that pét-nat with seafood, and one dish in particular: “At Café Boulud we feature a plateau de mer of poached white shrimp and oysters that all do very well with the high natural acidity, minerality and effervescence in these wines.”

At Café Boulud we feature a plateau de mer of poached white shrimp and oysters that all do very well with the high natural acidity, minerality and effervescence in these wines. – Jeremy Geyer

For the festive season, Geyer covets one glass above all others – especially if roast turkey is on the menu: “When it comes to traditional holiday meals, it’s hard to stray from Beaujolais red, particularly the wines from the 10 crus. This year I recommend focusing on the 2015 and 2014 vintages, both of which produced spectacular reds with incredible balance and structure. These wines work very well with turkey and poultry, and have the right mouthfeel to pair with their usual accompaniments.”

Your Journey Begins Here

Imbibe with us.

Toronto skyline

Where Our Sommeliers Go Wine Tasting

We asked Four Seasons sommeliers to reveal their go-to vineyards for wine tasting, including which bottles to uncork where. From an urban winery in San Francisco to a Portuguese vineyard kick-started by a nonagenarian winemaker, here are their favourite – and often unexpected – picks.


Treasure Island

An aerial view of San Francisco’s Treasure Island, home to Oro En Paz winery.

SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA

“There’s no need to travel far for good wines when you’re in San Francisco,” says Michael Baldonado, sommelier and MKT Bar Manager at Four Seasons Hotel San Francisco. “There are great wineries right here in the city, where you least expect them.” One of his choices: Oro En Paz, a winery on Treasure Island whose name, which means “gold in peace,” is part of San Francisco’s motto.

“The winery is truly local, sourcing fruit from family-run vineyards in Contra Costa, Sonoma and Lake counties,” Baldonado says. “My favourite of their wines is the Del Barba Vineyard Carignan 2014. It’s crafted from grapes from fifth-generation, 120-year-old vines and has a delicate finish with light tannins.” The meal he would pair it with is equally unexpected: a carnitas burrito from El Farolito in the Mission district: “The richness of the pork and brightness of the tomatoes make for a magical pairing, best enjoyed at Dolores Park with friends and sunshine.”

Four Seasons Hotel San Francisco


Gardens of the José Maria da Fonseca winery

The gardens of the José Maria da Fonseca winery in Setúbal, Portugal.

LISBON, PORTUGAL

“At the age of 92, Baron Bodo von Bruemmer came to Lisbon to produce wines at Casal de Santa Maria,” says Gabriela Marques, sommelier at Four Seasons Hotel Lisbon’s Varanda restaurant. “He recently passed at age 106, having produced some of the most amazing wines of Lisbon – including mineral Malvasia of Colares, which pairs perfectly with our coastal seafood.”

Marques recommends that guests who are visiting in autumn work with the Concierge to visit the seventh-generation, 650-hectare José Maria da Fonseca estate during Vindimas, the festive harvest time when the grapes are picked. “The day trip takes you behind the scenes of the family’s winemaking culture,” Marques says. She’s quick to note that although Portugal is often considered an emerging wine region, it has been making wine since the days of the Roman Empire. “Hundreds of indigenous grape varieties grow here – like Baga, Alfrocheiro and Fernão Pires,” she says, “many of which are blended, as is the Old World way.”

Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon


Wine cellar at Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris

The wine cellar at Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris, holds some 50,000 bottles.

PARIS, FRANCE

Gabriele del Carlo has been obsessed with wine since he was 18, working in the legendary wine cellar of Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence, Italy. Now head sommelier at the Michelin-starred Le George restaurant at Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris, Del Carlo loves showing guests around the Hotel’s 50,000-bottle-deep wine cellar. “It’s 45 feet below ground and a perfect playground for any wine lover,” he says.

His favourite tipples include Mersault Charmes 2012, paired with Burgundy-style snails: “The herbal touch and intensity of the Chardonnay will perfectly balance the heavy flavours of garlic and parsley.” Del Carlo also recommends drinking Champagne in Champagne – and adores the behind-the-scenes tour at Krug vineyards. “Reims is just an hour and a half from Paris by train,” he says, “and there’s nothing more enchanting than sipping a glass of Champagne facing the imposing circa 1211 Reims cathedral.”

Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris


Tuscan vineyard

When in Tuscany, a visit to the Chianti hills is in order, says Walter Meccia of Four Seasons Hotel Firenze.

FLORENCE, ITALY

Rome-born Walter Meccia’s obsession with wine began when he was just 15 and not even allowed to drink it yet. “I had a professor at my hôtellerie high school who was an expert and made me start to love wine even though I’d never tasted it,” says Meccia, sommelier at Four Seasons Hotel Firenze. “The opening of a new bottle was like a ritual, the sound of bubbles falling in the glass a melody.” He became a professional sommelier at age 18. Among his favourite wineries: Castello di Ama, which was founded in the 1970s in a 12th-century town in the Chianti hills.

“They were among the first to plant Merlot grapes in Chianti, and it’s an amazing place to visit because they’re passionate about contemporary art, too,” Meccia says. (Anish Kapoor, Louise Bourgeois and Hiroshi Sugimoto have all had their work featured on the estate.) “Be sure to have lunch or dinner in their recently opened restaurant, where real Tuscan food is prepared by cooks that once made meals for the family.” Don’t miss a glass – or a case – of their L’Apparita wine. “It was Tuscany’s first pure Merlot and has had a cult following since its first vintage, in 1985.” Back at the Hotel, try the Spa’s Chianti Relax Massage – Chianti oil mixed with rosemary and sage is reported to revitalize your skin and circulation, and certainly your mood.

Four Seasons Hotel Firenze

YOUR JOURNEY BEGINS HERE

Follow your taste buds to your next great adventure.

Ponte Santa Trinita

Everything You Should Know About Port Wine

As I sit down to write this column I have at my elbow a highball glass of ice, dry white port and tonic.

What, you might ask, is this travesty? Port is red, surely? Port is a sweet, old-fashioned after-dinner drink – not a refreshing aperitif. And besides, who ever heard of mixing it with tonic?

Well, Licínio Pedro Carnaz, for one. Carnaz is the sommelier at Four Seasons Hotel Ritz, Lisbon, and this white port concoction is one of the offerings at the Hotel’s Ritz Bar.

“It’s not well known,” he says, “but [it’s] one of our suggestions as an aperitif, and our guests get very surprised at it.”

The drinking of after-dinner port, vintage port, has been a ritual of the English cultured classes for centuries. In these less formal times, though, it’s a tradition that’s quickly evolving.

Millenials don’t have as many preconceived notions about port, so much more is possible. – James Tidwell, master sommelier at Four Seasons Dallas

“Today, the interest in port may not be the traditional ‘We’re going to open a 20-year-old vintage port,’ but [instead], in using port in different ways,” notes James Tidwell, Beverage Manager and Master Sommelier at Four Seasons Resort and Club Dallas at Las Colinas.

“If you’re talking to millennials about a wine that needs 20 years to be at its best, then you’ve lost them. Millennials are drinking it in any way that’s attractive and affordable.”


White Port and Tonic cocktail at Four Seasons Resort and Club Dallas at Las Colinas

This White Port and Tonic is a modern twist on the traditional wine and is popular among guests at Four Seasons Resort and Club Dallas at Las Colinas.

“But we do have a number of guests who are well-travelled and know wines from all over the world, and they tend to drink 10- and 20-year-old tawnies,” Tidwell continues. (Tawny port is long aged but in wood rather than the bottle, and has a nutty, mellow character.) “And baby boomers are drinking port in the more traditional styles – tawnies and LBVs [late bottled vintage, aged four to six years in wood] – after dinner and with desserts.”

Four Seasons Resort and Club Dallas at Las Colinas

A port primer


Man swirling port at Graham's Port winery

Port wine’s popularity through the centuries can be attributed to its flavour, which is both stronger and sweeter than traditional table wine.

Port’s longstanding popularity as an after-dinner drink can be credited to its fortification: About halfway through the fermentation process, a dose of a neutral grape spirit known as aguardiente is added to the wine, both fortifying it and halting the fermentation before all the sugar has been converted to alcohol. The resulting wine is both stronger and sweeter than traditional table wine, and comes in several varietals:

  • Vintage port is made in tiny quantities in only the best years and bottled after two years in 550-litre (145-gallon) traditional oak barrels called “pipes.” It then ages for 20, 30, even 50 years.
  • Crusted port is a blend of different vintages, bottled young enough so it throws a sediment, like vintage port.
  • Tawny port, long aged but in wood rather than the bottle, has a nutty, mellow character.
  • Late bottled vintage (LBV) port, a single-vintage port bottled after four to six years in wood, offers some of the character of vintage port at a more modest price.
  • Ruby port, a blend of young vintages, is fresh and fruity but lacks the complexity of older versions.
  • White port is similar to ruby but is made from white grapes. It is best chilled, as an aperitif.

Preserving port history

Port has been produced since the late 17th century, and became popular in England when constant wars with the French cut off access to Bordeaux. The continuing English influence can be seen today in the prominence of brands such as Graham’s, Taylors, Churchill’s, Cockburn’s and Croft, all named for English founders, many dating back to the early 18th century. Members of the Taylor, Churchill and Graham families are still involved in the business today.

Many of these houses participate in an annual sailing race in the sleepy Portuguese town of Oporto (a three-hour drive from Four Seasons Lisbon) during the annual festival of São João (St John). The unusual barcos rabelos, emblazoned with their company names and logos, race upstream along the Duoro River – a nod to the route these boats once took to deliver the wine from the vineyards to the port lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia. With a flat bottom, no keel, and a long and heavy oar, these unwieldy boats are extremely difficult to control under sail.

“They were never designed as sailing boats, but we, in our infinite wisdom, use them as such, and as a consequence we sometimes have spectacular accidents,” says Dominic Symington of Symington Family Estates.

Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon

Evolving tastes

A century ago, English aristocrats may have imbibed only the best vintage port, but times have changed. Most in demand now, Tidwell says, are port coolers, chilled tawnies as aperitifs, and anything that’s experiential and accessible.

“Can people afford to drink mature vintage port on a daily basis? No. Can they go into a wine bar in Brooklyn and get a white port cooler? Yes. They can afford it, and it’s something they can understand.”

Adrian Bridge, CEO of The Fladgate Partnership, makers of Taylor’s, Croft, Fonseca and Delaforce brands, is seeing the same trend. “In the U.S., it’s the rapid growth in cocktails and punches, in on- and off-trade respectively, that has created the most excitement recently,” he says. “Barmen and mixologists are finding that port has a range of wonderful flavours that can be used in a number of cocktails.”

As drinking patterns change, port’s versatility and adaptability have become its strengths.

While he doesn’t sell much vintage port – the market for this rarity has always been Great Britain – Carnaz at Four Seasons Lisbon says the demand for tawnies and LBVs, in addition to remixes like the white port aperitif, remains steady: “We sell more LBVs because they are easier to drink, they are filtered [so there’s no sediment to worry about], they’re not so expensive, and they keep in good condition for a few days.”

Carnaz has observed another development in port drinking, one that would have shocked the practitioners of the old procedures. Now that Chinese people have discovered port – not surprising, he says, given their predilection for sweeter alcoholic drinks – “they like it especially with the Portuguese seafood dish arroz de marisco. It’s a very strange combination, but they love it.”

Your Journey Begins Here

Make sure your port tasting tour includes traditional varieties and new adaptations.

property-feature-image-LIS