Visual Diary: An Artist Paints Her Way Through Hoi An, Vietnam


When Missy Dunaway spent a year in Istanbul on a Fulbright scholarship in 2013, studying Anatolian textiles, she kept a travel journal – but instead of writing it, she made it visual. Since then, her painted diaries have become a global passport, winning her half a dozen fellowships to travel the world. On Instagram, her work stands out in quiet contrast to the barrage of look-alike vacation photos; her mini canvases invite reflection. Recently she journeyed to Southeast Asia as part of the Envoy by
Four Seasons
program, which gives storytellers in a range of genres the chance to immerse themselves in a destination and create work in response to it. Notebook in hand, she navigated the hidden byways and gentle charms of Hoi An, Vietnam, a centuries-old port city.

Missy Painting

What attracted you to the travel journal as a medium?

Art and travel intersect in interesting ways, and all of that is really personal. The thing I love most about a journal is that it’s just yours, and it’s a place where you can be free and independent, and you can make creative changes and take things out and put things in. You get a satisfying sense of autonomy.

Painting of Hoi An Ancient Town

Dunaway illustrated her guided tour of Hoi An Ancient Town, where lanterns festoon the streets.

Do you paint places as you see them in the moment or as you remember them at a later date?

That’s the best thing about the journal: It’s not just a documentation of a place but also an important emotional journey from start to finish. You’re there in the moment and you have that first impression, but then there’s the long burn – inspirational topics that come on later. Sometimes I paint months later, because I’m reminiscing about a place. I miss it so much that I’ll just spend some time there before bed, painting.

What is your creative process?

It’s like I’m in a little time machine and I just pop back to that spot. I notice the big things first – time of day, light, atmosphere. Those things set a tone for the entire landscape. Once I have that, I think of the skyline. What is the exact skyline of Hoi An – that contour line of the buildings? Cities at twilight, I think, are the most beautiful. I loved walking through Hoi An so much. There is so much play between light and dark, with the canopy of leaves and trees and the sunlight coming through.

Missy Interacting

What was your impression of Envoy by Four Seasons when you looked into the program?

I was just so excited. It felt like I had a guarantee that I would be exposed to the immediate local culture of a country. All the times that I’ve travelled, I look for those kinds of opportunities, and sometimes I get lucky and sometimes I don’t. With Envoy, I knew that I was going to be creatively inspired.

How would you describe the experiences that Four Seasons Resort The Nam Hai, Hoi An created for you?

I’d say that it was very personal and tailored to me. It felt like an inspirational storm. I think the only other way I could have gotten this level of engagement is if I were to move here. Of course, it doesn’t exactly feel like I’m living here, because I’m in a beautiful resort and everything is taken care of for me.

Sketchbook 4 Missy

Dunaway’s painting of the Goodnight Kiss to the Earth experience at the Resort.

Did you make any strong personal connections during your stay?

I think I related to Miss Oanh so well because she’s also an artist. We just had an immediate rapport. She’s a musician, so she shared her excitement about her craft. The first experience I had with her was the Goodnight Kiss to the Earth, where I wrote a love letter to Mother Earth and placed it in a floating lantern and sent it out into a pond. The next day I saw her again for a singing bowl lesson. At first I thought of it as a bigger version of singing water glasses, but it was much more powerful, with a deeper, richer sound.

How did you feel in the moment?

I just felt so incredibly fortunate. Sometimes you can just picture yourself as a grandmother telling that story about that time that you got to play singing bowls in Vietnam with a professional musician. It was one of those moments where I’m telling myself, “Take this in. Be really present, be focused, listen to what she’s saying, don’t let your mind wander, because you know you’re not going to be here again.” Those moments are always the ones that feel so short.

Missy Casting Net Web

Were you expecting your trip to be so interactive?

I thought it would be interactive to a degree. But even with my high expectations, it went further. I not only went to a textile workshop but also worked at a loom. I not only went on a fishing boat but also threw a net.

How does engaging in an activity, like casting a net, differ from hearing someone describe it in words?

You get a more immediate sense of how big the world is, and then also how small the world is. We have fishing in Maine. I see fishing all the time. But then you get onto a traditional Vietnamese boat and you learn about the eyes that are painted on it, which come from local folklore – they’re meant to scare away sea monsters. Or the particular way that they hold the net in their hands so that it casts evenly into a fan. In every single thing that’s done, there’s so much depth.

Sketchbook 5 Missy

Dunaway embraced the evening ritual of candle lighting in Vietnam.

Was anything particularly surprising about your time at the Resort?

I would get home to my villa at night and someone would have come in and lit candles. I love lighting candles; it’s something I do at home. That was such a personal touch. But then I heard that this is a Vietnamese tradition that goes back to before they had electricity. There is this nightly ritual with a family of lighting candles as the sun is going down. It’s a very small detail that reflects something about Vietnamese culture, and that just made it even more significant.

How would you describe your experience as an Envoy?

This experience has been mind-opening. It was about having conversations, listening, taking part. A hands-on experience will stay with you; that’s how you should engage with the world.

All photography courtesy Muse Storytelling

Missy On Boat Cropped

Your Journey Begins Here

Discover the beauty of Hoi An

Explore

The Heart of Vietnam

I love wandering Hoi An’s ancient cobbled streets, particularly during the full moon, when strings of lanterns bring the façades of ochre-walled 18th- and 19th-century European, Vietnamese, Chinese and Japanese shophouses alive with light and colour.

Established in the 15th century, this tiny town on Vietnam’s central coast was a busy port until the mouth of the Thu Bon River silted up in the 19th century and all trade moved to Da Nang, 30 kilometres (18 miles) north.

I’m not alone in my love for this town and the central coast. In making Vietnam my home over the past decade, I’ve seen a flurry of energy and investment in this geographic and cultural heartland of the country.

As a result, walking the pedestrianized streets in Hoi An, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, feels like stepping back in time. Fishing boats bobbing on the canals blur the reflections of tradespeople hurrying home from their woodcarving, tailoring and painting shops for dinner. From cosy bars and restaurants set within timber-frame structures, ambient lamplight and delicious smells attract hungry patrons like moths to a flame.

Discover Hoi An: An awakening in the central coast

I always alight first at Vy’s Market – from the same proprietor as the excellent Mermaid and Cargo Club restaurants – and watch the cooks work elbow to elbow, preparing local street food specialties such as banh bao vac, or “white rose” dumplings (steamed, petal-shaped dumplings of rice flour with a filling of spiced pork or shrimp).

For more contemporary fare, I’ll swing by Chef Tran Duc’s Asian fusion eatery Mango Rooms, one of Hoi An’s longest-running and best-known spots, and order spicy Super Fly Shrimp and gingery red snapper. I’ll also make a point of visiting the chef’s newer outlets: Mango Mango, on the opposite bank of the Thu Bon River, and traditional homestyle eatery Mai Fish.

Four Seasons Resort The Nam Hai

I’m not alone in my love for this town and the central coast area that surrounds it. While making Vietnam my home over the past decade, I’ve seen a flurry of energy and investment in this geographic and cultural heartland of the country. The fact that Hoi An’s modern-day entrepreneurs can open one shop or eatery after another is evidence of the overall upward trajectory of this region. Nearby Da Nang, now Vietnam’s third-largest urban area, is the poster city for the country’s growth.

Da Nang’s pro-development government has put in place a well-planned infrastructure that includes an expanded and still-expanding airport, currently receiving direct flights weekly from Korea, Japan, Bangkok, Singapore and Hong Kong. Property moguls are touting Da Nang and its surrounds as the next Phuket or Bali; hospitality consultancy firm Horwath HTL has dubbed the region the “next great beach destination in Asia.”

While its beaches are picture-postcard perfect, what gives the central coast an edge is its position as gateway to three UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

The beaches that stretch from Da Nang to Hoi An are among the world’s most beautiful. Some are justifiably quite popular, but I can always find a quiet spot somewhere along the 900-metre (half-mile) My Khe beach. When I want company, I visit one of the beachfront grill shacks or backpacker bars on lively An Bang or Cua Dai, both easily accessible from Hoi An’s downtown by bicycle or xe om (motorbike taxi).

Yet it’s not throngs of visitors or new development but a wealth of natural and cultural treasures that characterizes the central coast. While these beaches are picture-postcard perfect, what gives this region an edge over other gorgeous Southeast Asian destinations is its position as a gateway to three UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Where the past meets the future

Back in Hoi An, more historical and cultural riches await in the UNESCO-listed Old Town. Its museums, historic family homes, temples and venues for traditional performances are accessible via books of entrance tickets.

Marking one edge of Old Town, the iconic covered Japanese Bridge, constructed by Japanese merchants at the end of the 16th century to connect their quarter with the Chinese neighbourhood on the other side of the river, is the only known bridge attached to a Buddhist pagoda.

Two-storey family home Tan Ky House incorporates Chinese and Japanese architectural styles – walls inlaid with mother-of-pearl, wooden frames carved with dragons, crossed weapons, and elaborate fruits and leaves.

Once I’ve had my fill of official monuments, I’ll continue touring the town. Many traditional shophouses have been reinvigorated as intriguing galleries, chic boutiques, and stylish places to drink and dine.

In Hoi An’s Old Town, unassuming tailoring shops create bespoke suits for a snip of the prices on Savile Row, with long-running spots claiming visiting celebs among their clients.

If I don’t buy something tailored, I usually fall in love with a contemporary dress or top in cotton or silk at Oche boutique or O-Collective. For a mid-shopping pick-me-up, I’ll pop into one of the town’s ever-growing complement of coffee shops or cocktail spots.

Every time I’m in Hoi An, I feel a deeper appreciation for the region’s appeal through the centuries, attracting kings, emperors, colonial administrators and prosperous merchants – and now, a new generation of globetrotters in search of the heart of Vietnam.

Welcome to Four Seasons Resort The Nam Hai, Hoi An

Architect Reda Amalou envisioned each room at Four Seasons Resort The Nam Hai, Hoi An, Vietnam, as an exquisite modern interpretation of the traditional Vietnamese nha ruong, or “house of panels,” bringing together classic elements of Vietnamese design with modern touches in keeping with the principles of phong thuy (Vietnamese feng shui).

Open-plan, colonnaded interiors support roofs of handcrafted terracotta tiles. A central platform inspired by the Vietnamese phan – a multipurpose stage where the family greets visitors, eats meals and sleeps – makes room for a desk, a sunken bath, a flat-screen TV and a soft king-size bed. The horseshoe arrangement of villas gives every guest an ocean view.

Four Seasons Resort The Nam Hai

Equally stunning is the sight of three central pools at different levels, framed by swaying palms with the open ocean beyond.

Gain new understanding of the subtleties and nuances of Vietnamese cuisine at the on-site Nam Hai Cooking Academy, led by Chef Tran Van Sen. The Academy offers single-day and week-long courses, and leads guests on a different culinary adventure each day, from visiting local markets to preparing imperial specialties such as Hue lemongrass skewers and stuffed banh khoai pancakes. Between beach visits and cooking classes, recharge at The Heart of the Earth Spa, with treatments informed by Buddhist monk Thich Nhat Hanh’s Zen teachings.

Your Journey Begins Here

Rediscover Vietnam’s rich history and observe its undeniable future

Explore