A Mangrove Tour in Langkawi

Close your eyes and picture a wildlife safari. What do you see? My guess is that the images dancing through your mind involve Africa’s Big Five – lions, leopards, elephants, rhinos and buffaloes – and not the region’s lesser-known Little Five, a contingent of smaller-statured wildlife that includes rhinoceros beetles and elephant shrews.

I had expectations of grandeur myself as I travelled just off the northwest coast of Malaysia and prepared to embark on the Mangrove and Eagles Safari, an Extraordinary Experience on offer at Four Seasons Resort Langkawi. But I soon discovered, amid mangroves and dense geoforests, that observing wildlife on a smaller scale can be just as exhilarating as catching sight of a majestic lion stalking across the Serengeti.


Aerial view of Langkawi mangroves

Langkawi’s labyrinth of mangroves house sea caves, millions-year-old rock formations and myriad wildlife.

The more modest specimens in question here include fish, birds, monkeys and those known by local guides as Langkawi’s Flying Five: airborne lemurs, lizards, frogs, tree snakes and squirrels. They’re just as alluring and elusive as megafauna, and certainly as impressive if you have the chance to see them up close.

Langkawi is the largest in an archipelago of 99 islands, most of them technically sea stacks born some 550 million years ago of tectonic plate movement. Upon these porous limestone rocks today, thick geoforests make for stunning scenery and, more importantly, host a unique ecosystem and range of wildlife. Brushing the Andaman Sea and nestled into the forest on the northern shore of Langkawi is the Resort, the perfect access point to Langkawi’s Kilim Karst Geoforest Park (part of the UNESCO-protected Langkawi Geopark) and the place where our enlightening wildlife adventure begins.

We meet our guide, Farouk, in the Resort’s Geopark Discovery Centre. After a brief introduction to the park and the Resort’s efforts to aid conservation, we board our boat, a motorised Malay pinas, straight off the beach. Bouncing along the shoreline, we get a close-up view of one of the sea stacks, which looms over us as we glide by. It’s a curious sight: sheer walls, thick with foliage, sprouting from the sea.

Up ahead the mangroves come into view, and we slow to a crawl to prevent our wake from damaging the delicate shorelines. Still on open water, we edge up to the fringes of the forest, and on the muddy waterfront Farouk points out fiddler crabs, mudskippers and, in the water, needlefish. As we crane over the side of the boat to get photos, he explains how important the mangroves are to the archipelago; more than 60 percent of the area’s marine life depends on this habitat.


Four Seasons Resort Langkawi Geopark Discovery Centre exterior

Experience the wonder of South Asia’s first UNESCO Geopark at the Resort’s Geopark Discovery Centre, featuring exhibition boards, interactive presentations and authentic displays.

It’s not long before a group of macaques, curious about their new neighbours and likely on the hunt for a free feed, emerge from the branches. Farouk tells us the monkeys are, as one might expect, intelligent creatures unfazed by human contact, even known to board tour boats at times. Farouk is a delightful, animated guide, filling us in on animal behaviour and anecdotes from his excursions. Many of the monkeys, he says, recognise him and adapt their behaviour accordingly, sometimes challenging him for alpha male status.


Macaque in Langkawi

Curious macaques are among the many species of local wildlife you’ll spot during the safari.

Now fully surrounded by mangroves, our boat rounds a bend and enters a broad stretch of brackish water over which white-bellied sea eagles and Brahminy Kites, whose name in Malay gives Langkawi its name, swoop and dive to catch titbits from a feeder boat.

Farouk takes us farther up the river, where it narrows to such an extent that mangroves brush the sides of the boat. We’re in the thick of action here, the sun only dappling the water as we glide through. Someone spots a snake on a branch, but we’re assured it’s at a safe distance; later on a lizard, 2 feet long from nose to tail, breaks from the bank and swims out in front of our bow. We’re thoroughly immersed in this fascinating tropical environment.

Farouk has one more treat up his sleeve for us before we make our way home: We pass through a ravine and into a tunnel-like cave. Not until he switches his torch on and points it upwards do we see that the ceiling is crowded with sleeping bats.

As we skip over the sea back to the Resort, I reflect on the creatures we’ve seen in this unique environment and those that have eluded us, including the Flying Five—that’s the chance you take when you look for animals in their natural habitat. I’m sure of one thing: I’ll have to return.

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Trending Now: Modern Salons from London to Dubai


Exchanging ideas at Salon London

A modern iteration of the traditional literary salon, Salon London organises monthly gatherings showcasing experts in the worlds of science, the arts and psychology.

In the fall of 2003, California teacher Toby Brothers moved to Paris for her husband’s job. For her, the romance of the move, the thoughts of idling away days along the Seine, were soon overshadowed by the realities of integrating herself into a new culture, learning a new language and settling into a new city. One evening, a chance encounter at a cocktail party led to an in-depth discussion of her passion for teaching and a favourite book—Beloved, by Toni Morrison—prompting a new idea. What do you do, as a literature teacher, to embrace your new environment in one of the world’s most cultured cities? Why, you set up a literary salon. This is Paris, after all.

Hotbeds of creativity and progressive ideas, salons are synonymous with the French Enlightenment. The salonnières most associated with the early days are women such as the colourful Madame Geoffrin, who ran arguably Paris’ most famous salon in the mid-18th century, hosting writers and artists. Women led many of the early salons in Europe, creating an important outlet for voices that otherwise might not have been heard. And women are often the catalysts in the current movement.

Today salons have had a renaissance, perhaps as a pushback against the decline of face-to-face human contact in our digital age. From poetry brunches to multimedia presentations in art galleries to scientific discussions in converted warehouses, these gatherings point to the universal need for personal interaction and mental exercise. They allow people to come together to increase their knowledge and hone their tastes through conversation and the exchange of ideas. Their mission is to allow debate, to stoke passion and to inspire.

“Part of my inspiration was Natalie Clifford Barney,” Brothers tells me, “another American expat who ran what was dubbed ‘the liveliest salon in Paris’ in the first half of the 1900s.” Brothers set up her own salon in Paris before moving again, this time to London. Now, her London Literary Salon is based in her living room, where patrons tackle such weighty authors as Joyce, Proust and Faulkner.

Salons are for the free exchange of any type of stories or ideas.

So, I tell myself, a salon is basically a book club. But I quickly learn that I’m oversimplifying: “We use the literature as a launch pad for deeper discussion,” Brothers explains. “It’s a means to an end rather than the end in itself. The literature is a road map to the bigger questions.”

My first lesson is learned: Salons are for the free exchange of any type of stories or ideas. Some salons marry a literary theme with a broader sense of culture or art. Inspired by an invitation to read from her then-in-progress novel at a SoHo art gallery, New York–based writer Vica Miller set up a multimedia salon in 2009. Her idea was to emulate the salons of 1920s Paris salonnière Gertrude Stein, with writers reading from new work amid contemporary art. “The multimedia component is important to me, as I love such synergies,” Miller says. “People connect on a different level because hearing a good story read aloud against a backdrop of amazing art is a transcendent experience.”

Other salons are completely removed from literature. I recently attended an event at Shoreditch House, a members’ club in a converted warehouse, organised by Salon London. The word “literary” doesn’t feature in its objectives of “Science, Art, Psychology.” Co-founder Helen Bagnall says, “People come from all disciplines and want community and intelligent entertainment.” So what’s up for discussion?

“In some ways, we’re what television should deliver,” Bagnall says. “If a salon works, the audience will hear something they’ve never heard before, pick up a new skill, and go away wanting to find out more.”

By the time the salon starts, some 50 people fill the room, with stools taken from the bar next door and standing room only. The Shoreditch House library seems more like a Lothario’s living room: huge velvet sofas, deep leather armchairs and faded Persian rugs. A zinc-topped table to one side forms the centrepiece of a makeshift but elaborate bar. David Nutt, a professor of neuropsychopharmacology, speaks on what medicines do to the brain. The subject: “The Truth About Drugs.” In the spirit of the salon, he sits, speaking in a conversational manner, inviting comments and questions. While it wasn’t a subject I would have expected for a salon, it was an insightful, witty, often challenging and thoroughly engaging affair, imbued with human interaction, laughter and the frisson of participation. I left energised, enlightened and intellectually stimulated. And I’d learned another lesson: Salons aren’t just a lot of people attending a reading or lecture. Even though modern salons may not be held in private sitting rooms and may be guided by a lecturer, the key is casual interaction and the exchange and growth of ideas.

London salons have become the vogue in recent years, and not simply for emerging writers. At the top of the list, playwright and journalist Damian Barr leads monthly events where established authors read from upcoming works and pitch ideas. The gatherings have gained such repute that they are now attended by the glitterati as well as the literati. Past sessions have featured the likes of David Nicholls, John Waters and Bret Easton Ellis. Barr has taken his literary salon abroad, too, holding events destinations like Istanbul. Which leads me to my next realisation: Modern salons aren’t held only in Paris, London or New York. (In fact, salons first developed in the Middle East.)

 

The trendy thing to do after iftar, the breaking of the fast, is to head out to various cafés for literary salons and open-mic reading nights.

The movement is gathering fresh momentum globally. Salons in the 21st century cross borders, languages and even the digital wall. In Dubai, amid a thriving arts and culture scene in the UAE, American expat, blogger and writer Danna Lorch has observed bibliophiles setting up their own discussion groups through Twitter and local literary festivals. “During Ramadan,” Lorch says, “the trendy thing to do after iftar, the breaking of the fast, is to head out to various cafés for literary salons and open-mic reading nights.” Here, the salon culture leans more towards poetry. It’s a tradition in the Middle East that dates back to the Middle Ages, with its recent incumbents led, in part, by Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum and his son, published poets who write in both English and Arabic.

Punch and The Poeticians, both run by poets, lead the new salon wave in Dubai. Punch is a short way of saying “poetry bunch.” Lebanese poet Zeina Hashem Beck organises the monthly event at BookMunch, a Dubai literary café. The Poeticians, founded in 2007 and also active in Amman and Beirut, is “an elastic entity welcoming anyone willing to share bits of their linguistic light with us in English, Arabic or French.” Both groups rely on Facebook for communication. So my next lesson, and perhaps the most surprising, is that yes, salons are about personal, often face-to-face, communication, but they aren’t forums for Luddites. Even if they develop as a reaction against the impersonal qualities of digital culture, today’s salons don’t distance themselves from the digital arena, but embrace it. Digital tools are encouraging salons to form and to grow: connecting people, distributing content, even offering salon events as podcasts.

Of all the salons around the world today, perhaps the Sunday Salon is the ultimate example of how salons are proliferating and reinventing themselves. Started in New York in 2002 by Alaskan Nita Noveno, the salon runs monthly events at Jimmy’s No. 43, a bar and restaurant in the East Village. Like many other salons, it was designed to encourage new writing and allow emerging writers to find an audience. It wasn’t long, though, before a counterpart group was set up in Chicago—and another in Nairobi. Thanks to Noveno’s use of the internet to encourage others to create similar groups, Salon Nairobi emerged in 2007 out of a partnership between Noveno and June Wanjiru Wainaina, founder of Kwani? Readings. Salon Nairobi has grown into quite the literary machine, publishing and distributing content, running festivals, offering tutelage, and making global connections.

This leads me to the most important thing I’ve learned about modern salons: In contrast to the aristocratic leanings of earlier salons, today’s groups depend on the principle of equality—of all opinions being valuable and up for discussion rather than attack. This latter point is something that’s often a lot easier to adhere to in face-to-face conversation; think of how much more tempting it is to dismiss an idea in, say, an online comments forum.

Literary salons have emerged for all manner of skill levels. Many offer a nurturing environment that novice writers may not find elsewhere. New York’s Pen Parentis, for writers who are parents, takes place in a hotel bar—with literary ambitions fuelled, presumably, by a much-needed cocktail. The Franklin Park reading series, held at the eponymous Brooklyn beer garden, features “emerging and established fiction writers, memoirists, poets and story-tellers,” highlighting “local talent and authors from around the world.” Lit at Lark showcases local authors in Brooklyn’s Lark café.

The environment may have changed, but the reasons for salons remain the same. “People get inspired,” says multimedia salon founder Miller. “Afterwards, writers have told me, they’ve gone back to their own writing desks to finish manuscripts in progress. Many have said they felt enchanted by the nurturing and creative atmosphere. New friendships are forged as people connect and have conversations on a deeper level, and a couple of writers secured an agent and a publishing deal after reading at the salon.”

The salonnière Madame Geoffrin would be proud.

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Being a Rice Farmer in Bali

Water-filled terraces, lush with rice grass, fringed by jungle with bowing palms and banana trees—making my way up country to Ubud in Bali’s central highlands, I’m struck by how many times I come upon this iconic view. Rice farming is perhaps the single most important productive and cultural element on the island. And not 24 hours after I arrive, I find myself knee-deep in a paddy, a woven wicker hat shielding my head from the morning sun, raking mud through water. All this, would you believe, courtesy of Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan.


Rice fields from Bali Extraordinary Experience

Beautiful rice fields and terraces are located throughout Bali, as the crop is a staple for islanders.

Don’t be alarmed: I’m not doing the Balinese equivalent of washing the dishes for an unpaid restaurant cheque. No, this is purely by choice. An Extraordinary Experience available exclusively through the Resort, A Day in the Life of a Balinese Farmer offers guests the opportunity to immerse themselves in the unique culture of this island paradise. And extraordinary it certainly is.

We start at the corner of the Resort, which is nestled into the jungle that covers the side of a river gorge—the place is truly spectacular. It is in these idyllic surroundings that Poonama, our guide, offers a brief introduction to Balinese philosophy: a love of life and nature, harmonious coexistence. And, perhaps most important, a love of laughter.


Flower offering at temple in Bali

As part of a daily ritual, the Balinese bring offerings of rice, flowers and incense to their temples for protection and prosperity.

Poonama is a model of the Balinese disposition, a cheery soul with an infectious sense of humour. Our day begins with a trek, and he takes us to the riverbank, the waters whipping along at a rate of knots. “Now we cross,” he says, adding, “Don’t worry, we only go waist-deep.” He gives us a moment as we look quizzically, almost imploringly, at each other before he bursts into a belly laugh and assures us he’s joking. This breaks the ice, and he proceeds to tell us of the Balinese penchant for humour—and how good it is for the soul.

We continue up into the forest on the outskirts of the Resort and are soon in a village, moss and vines covering the surrounding walls. Poonama leads us past stone ape effigies, their hands formed in a sign of welcome, and into a compound surrounded by shrines. A woman is silently making offerings to each in turn, and we learn about the spirituality of this culture. In Bali every house, every building, has a temple or shrine that receives daily blessings. Small banana-leaf baskets with incense sticks and offerings are a common sight all over the island.


Snake fruit from Four Seasons breakfast in Bali

Enjoy salak (or snake fruit), a local favourite, which has flavours of pineapple, citrus and honey.

As we tour the village, Poonama gives us an overview of the farmer’s way of life. With the heady complications of Western urban routines receding, I can’t help thinking there’s a wonderful simplicity to this rural idyll. The personal touches Poonama gives—showing us childhood games he used to play in the forest and telling anecdotes as we walk among the houses—add to the warmth of the experience. Far from feeling as though I’m viewing the culture from inside a fishbowl, I have a sense of participation and understanding, and this feeling intensifies as our walk concludes and we sit down to breakfast.

Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan

Having worked up an appetite during our stroll, we sit in a traditional bale (a sort of raffia gazebo) and enjoy a farmer’s breakfast: rice porridge; a range of fruits that includes the enigmatic and oddly sweet-sour-dry “snake fruit,” so named for its scaly skin; and Balinese coffee, a curious silt-like brew. The meal helps enhance the experience, certainly, although one suspects it’s rather more cushy than the farmer might be used to. The flavours, setting and smells, however, are authentic.


Rice planting Extraordinary Experience with Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan

Learn local rice-planting techniques during an exclusive experience with Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan.

And then comes the main event. Outfitted with traditional hats and soft gumboots, we begin, first raking the mud through the water.  A local farmer demonstrates what has taken place prior to our arrival—the seeds being sown and covered to germinate—and brings out the rice saplings that we will plant.  All those images we’ve seen of rice paddies and we’re finally doing it, working in the warm sun planting the crops. I get a sense it could be back-breaking stuff, and our laboriously slow and inaccurate planting provides much amusement for the professionals who tell us a 20-square-metre (23-square-yard) paddy can be planted in 15 minutes. Fifteen minutes? I spent five laying just a handful. It’s a skill that can only really be appreciated once the task is attempted.


Grains from rice crop in Bali

Bali’s tropical climate allows for rice grains to be harvested year round.

The knee-deep experience lasts under an hour. The easy option, you might think, but no. Rice farmers don’t toil all day; planting is done swiftly so the afternoon can be enjoyed. For our part, this comes with the delights of a Balinese massage at the Resort’s luxury Spa—the conclusion to our experience. And while this is admittedly not a daily ritual available to the farmers, we are assured that their day ends with plenty of time for relaxation and, of course, much laughter.

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