7 Reasons You Must Go Truffle Hunting
in Tuscany

Food writer M.F.K. Fisher once wrote that truffles “may or may not be as good as they are rare and dear.”

I take issue with that statement. When I used to cover the fashion shows in Milan as part of my job, it was amazing to see the high style on the runways. But I admit it: What I found most exciting about being in Italy during the fall was being there for white truffle season. The pleasure of eating this rare delicacy so close to the source went far beyond my enjoyment of any truffle I’d ever tasted in the United States.

Yet I dreamed of more, of going to the Italian countryside to hunt for truffles and try one plucked right from the earth. During a trip on the Four Seasons Private Jet, I got to do just that.

Here are seven reasons why you need to add this experience to your bucket list. Or any itinerary.


Savini Tartufi headquarters

1. IT WILL SURPRISE YOU

About an hour’s drive outside of Florence, Savini Tartufi is hidden away in the tiny village of Forcoli. Driving up to the headquarters, set in a nondescript building in an equally nondescript industrial area, my heart sank. This was not what I had envisioned. But inside, it was another story. The walls of this fourth-generation family company were lined with all kinds of divine truffle products, and a vintage scooter was propped in one corner. Luca Campinotti was weighing and packaging beautiful specimens, still covered with fresh earth, to deliver to some of Italy’s top restaurants and beyond.


The site of the truffle hunting in Tuscany

2. IT’S THE HOME OF THE WORLD’S BEST TRUFFLES

There are dozens of varieties of truffles in the world, but Italy’s white truffle is one of the most elusive, most delicious and most expensive. It’s found only from September to December and in just the right conditions, growing on the roots of trees under layers of damp leaves and dirt. I was surprised that the Savini team didn’t blindfold us as they led us to a secret forest that must be worth millions, thanks to the treasures it conceals.


World record–winning truffle

3. IT’S ALSO THE HOME OF THE WORLD’S MOST EXPENSIVE TRUFFLE

In 2007, two of the family’s hunters – Luciano and Cristiano Savini – unearthed a 1.28-kilogram (2-pound, 13-ounce) truffle that sold at auction for a whopping USD 330,000. That price is recognized by Guinness World Records as the most money ever paid at auction for a white truffle. You can check out a replica of the truffle at the headquarters. Fun fact: The dog that found the original was 14 years old.


A truffle hunting dog

4. THE TRUFFLE-HUNTING DOGS ARE CUTE – AND TALENTED

In the past, hunters used to rely on pigs to sniff out these prized discoveries. Problem was, the pigs loved to eat them. These days, well-trained dogs who don’t care for the taste are used for foraging. We got to meet Giotto, a Lagotto Romagnolo who has become mildly famous thanks to his myriad media appearances. On this excursion, though, Luca had invited Giotto’s buddy Birba, a little beagle mix, to lead our small group. Birba was charming and friendly until we hit the woods; then her hunting instincts kicked in as she scratched at the undergrowth. Her reward for finding a truffle? A measly biscuit.


A truffle hunting dog searches for truffles

5. THE THRILL OF THE HUNT

The private chef on the Four Seasons jet took a picture of a truffle at headquarters in case we didn’t find any to share on social media, but fortunately we didn’t need it. Our dream team — Birba and Luca — delivered. Within an hour, they had discovered three perfect, delicious white truffles. We even got to sample a sliver of one, seconds after it came out of the ground. I don’t think I’ve ever seen anyone smile as broadly as our chef did as he cradled that truffle in his hands for a photo to share on Instagram. The experience was foodie nirvana.


A truffle hunting dog with his findings

6. YOU CAN EXPERIENCE THE ITALIAN COUNTRYSIDE IN A WHOLE NEW WAY

Besides the hunt, there was something magical about wandering through the quiet forest, with Birba prancing through the brush and Luca softly offering her praise and encouragement in Italian. Light streamed through the leaves of the trees. Birds chirped overhead. It was like something out of Alice in Wonderland, except we had a treat coming at the end of the tunnel that would be much better than any tea party.


Dish with shaved white truffles

7. NOTHING WILL EVER COMPARE TO THE TASTE OF THESE TRUFFLES

After our journey through the forest, we went back to the Savini headquarters, where Luca and his team whipped up a multi-course meal, with truffles generously heaped over everything from tagliolini pasta to fried eggs, served with local Tuscan wines. I’ve never tasted anything as heavenly as the truffles that we had helped collect just moments before the meal. It was definitely worth the journey.

Four Seasons Hotel Firenze

YOUR JOURNEY BEGINS HERE

Ready for your next great adventure?

Ponte Santa Trinita

The Insider’s Guide to Dubai:
6 People You Need to Meet


Dubai is a study in contrast – a place where winding souks exist alongside modern high-rise buildings, glamorous beach resorts and dramatic desert landscapes share real estate and a dazzling city centre abuts lively residential neighbourhoods. The largest city in the United Arab Emirates, often described as a bridge between East and West, is also a mosaic of global cultures.

The people who live and work in Dubai are as compelling as the metropolis itself. From a Brazilian belly dancer to a falconer from South Africa, Four Seasons can introduce you to some of the most intriguing individuals – people who will make an extraordinary visit truly unforgettable.

The Bartender Dubai

THE MIXOLOGIST

Born in Milan, with Sicilian roots, Mariano Ricciari, the assistant bar manager and lead bartender of MINA Brasserie, still starts his day with a proper Italian espresso. Friends joke that he’s a workaholic. Even though he’s a manager, he still likes to jump behind the bar for fun.

Here, you see things that you don’t find anywhere else.

“I love to create a sense of hospitality,” he says. “The interaction with different guests is what I like the most about my job. I get to listen to new stories and adventures. Some people share things that they might not even tell their wife or husband.”

Ricciari moved to Dubai three years ago and describes the city as a bubble in the world. “Here, you see things that you don’t find anywhere else, and you find a better way to recreate something that you’ve seen somewhere else,” he says. He’s constantly pushing his team to experiment and get creative with the cocktail program. “At the end of the night I like to sit down and share my feedback with the team and congratulate them for a job well done,” he says. “And of course, I pour myself a drink.”

A belly dancer greets guests at Four Seasons Hotel Dubai

THE BELLY DANCER

Upon arrival at Four Seasons Dubai Jumeirah Beach, the unmistakable sounds of Arabic music wafts through the air and a pair of belly dancers appear, elegantly bending their bodies to the rhythm. It’s an ideal welcome.

[Belly dancing] brings you happiness when you watch it.

One of the dancers is Brazil-born Graciela Pischner, who always dreamed of performing in the Middle East and made her way to Dubai after stops in Lebanon, Yemen, Bahrain and Tunis. “I like how people in Dubai appreciate and respect my work,” she says. “Also, it’s a safe place, and the perfect location for someone who wants to travel around the world.”

Belly dancing is a respected Arabic art form, with some differences according to location. In Dubai, the dancers perform in high heels and take big steps. “It brings you happiness when you watch it,” Pischner says.

The Restaurant Manager Dubai

THE RESTAURANT MANAGER

As the Manager of Suq Restaurant at Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach, Lawrence Raj believes it’s his role to make guests feel like part of the family. “It’s as important to start the day right as it is to end,” he says, “so beginning with breakfast, I ensure every guest receives astounding service.”

At Suq every day is always full of new discoveries.

The cuisine at Suq, a mix of flavours from the Middle East, Asia and the West, reflects the diversity of the city. Raj, who was born in Kanyakumari in South India, moved to Dubai 15 years ago, drawn to the city’s blend of ancient traditions with modernity. “Dubai reminds travellers of its heritage through its food, fabrics, dialects and desert tents,” he says. “The city is so alive, and at Suq every day is always full of new discoveries, new friends and personal growth.”

A falcon trainer does a demonstration near Dubai.

THE FALCONER

The art of falconry goes back more than 2,000 years. Although most people in modern-day Dubai don’t rely on falcons to hunt prey and find water in the desert, the falcon remains an important symbol in Arabic culture. It’s the national bird of the United Arab Emirates.

South Africa–born Liander Botes is the operations manager at Wild Flight Dubaiwhich introduces travellers to falconry and educates them about birds of prey. “This is not a pet – this is a dangerous animal,” Botes tells visitors, noting that when going for the kill, the bird can reach speeds of up to 300 kph (200 mph). “It is a hunting tool and can cause the same damage as a rifle.”

The falcon can reach speeds of up to 300 kph (200 mph).

The falcon can travel long distances, but, as Botes shows guests, it can also return to its owner, thanks to a natural form of GPS. Wild Flight Dubai can arrange for a falcon to perch on a well-protected arm or display a bird’s exercise and free flight at sunset. “The interesting thing about my job is that every day is different,” says Botes, who developed a love of animals while growing up on a farm in South Africa. “Every day something new happens.”

The Camel Trainer Dubai

THE CAMEL TRAINER 

Mohammed Ali doesn’t speak a word of English, but with simple motions he shows guests how to mount his camels carefully and ride them over sand dunes.

He assures nervous first-timers through his translator that camels are actually quite calm as long as you don’t create a noise that disturbs them. An expert trainer who has worked alongside camels since childhood, Ali was born in Pakistan and now lives with the Bedouins in the desert. He takes great pleasure in helping visitors live out their Lawrence of Arabia fantasies while interacting with his well-behaved animals.

A food expert teaches Four Seasons' guests about local Dubai flavors.

THE FOOD EXPERT

Dubai’s dining scene isn’t defined just by its plentiful celebrity-chef restaurants. Arva Ahmed, a respected food blogger and the founder of Frying Pan Adventuresprovides an authentic taste of local flavours on her culinary tours of Old Dubai.

Dubai is a great preserver of food culture from around the region.

Ahmed, born in India, moved to the United States for college, followed by a high-powered job as a management consultant in Manhattan. But her heart was always in Dubai. Eventually, she returned to pursue her true passion: food. With her quick wit and encyclopedic knowledge of regional cuisine, it’s no wonder Andrew Zimmern featured Ahmed on his show Bizarre Foods.

An afternoon with Ahmed in the Deira neighbourhood emphasizes Dubai’s multiculti cuisine. Tastings might include Lebanese pizza, freshly made Egyptian falafel, and a sweet Arabic dessert called knafeh that’s made with noodles and stringy cheese. She clearly relishes the variety: “Dubai is a great preserver of food culture from around the region, the Middle East and beyond to North Africa and the Indian subcontinent.”

Your Journey Begins Here

Ready for your next adventure?

Taking Flight: 8 Secrets From My Trip Around the World

I’ve been a travel journalist for 25 years. I’ve travelled just about everywhere, and I’ve been on plenty of planes. I never want a flight to last longer.

But I quickly learned that being on the Four Seasons Private Jet is like no other flying experience, even if you’ve flown private. The Jet itself is dazzling: a sleek black Boeing 757 outfitted with just 52 white Italian leather flat-bed seats. As I boarded, the staff was waiting to escort me to my seat. And what a seat it was, topped with a plush orange cashmere blanket and throw pillow. The Jet’s comfort and style were just two of the many (wonderful) surprises during my 19-day journey around the world.

Not just a once-in-a-lifetime trip

The pampering began before I even arrived in London. Global Guest Services Manager Ashley Peterson had been in close touch before my departure from New York City, arranging every detail. When I landed at Heathrow, a driver was waiting to whisk me away in a Mercedes to Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane.

On my arrival, it looked as though the entire Hotel staff had turned out to greet me. Journey Manager Jill came to the room and tagged my bags. She promised that I would never have to lift or check in a suitcase over the next 19 days.

I could get used to this. And it turns out that some people do.

On the first night of the trip, I met two couples who were on their second private jet journey. Jean and her husband, Sal, raved about their previous experience – the friends they had met, the food, the indelible memories. Jean admitted that before their first trip, she had thought of it as something to do once in a lifetime. But she quickly realized that there was no better way to see the world.

And won’t want to get off the plane

I can see why they’re repeat travellers – it’s easy to make yourself at home on the Jet. With six-and-a-half feet of space, I could stretch out forever. A fluffy down blanket and pillow, along with a pair of silk eyeshades, were ready in case I wanted to sleep. There were enough amenities to keep me entertained for hours on end. Stacks of magazines. An iPad loaded with movies and music. A pair of Bose noise-cancelling headphones. As it turned out, I never could find the time to read all the magazines and watch all the movies. That was a good problem.

 

Being on the Jet was relaxing in the most profound way possible. Perhaps it was partly the highly calibrated LED lighting system that was programmed to regulate your mood by emitting calming shades of violet and blue. But it was also the gracious staff. They seemed to anticipate my every need. Just when I was feeling a little pang of hunger, there they were with snacks.

The pilots made the flights amazing, too. I will never forget flying from Arusha, Tanzania – the gateway to the Serengeti – to Pisa, Italy. The pilot decided to circle over the peak of Kilimanjaro, once for the passengers on the left side of the plane, another time for the people on the right side, allowing everyone a glimpse of this majestic mountain from the air.

The journey staff will make your wildest dreams come true

Javier Loureiro, the Director of Guest Experience and Onboard Concierge, is the master of ceremonies on this very special journey. Javier used to be the top Concierge at Four Seasons Hotel Washington, DC, where he ran the Hotel with a charming iron fist and surely helped out his share of diplomats.

Whatever you want, Javier and his team, and the staffs at the hotels and resorts you visit along the way, can make it happen. Would you rather take a helicopter to Cinque Terre than explore the artisanal shops and galleries of Florence? No problem – they’ll take care of it.

I encountered a small but perfect example of this make-it-happen-in-a-minute approach in London. I realized that I had forgotten to bring a converter, and happened to mention it to Ashley. No problem, she said, and immediately sent one to my room. In fact, no matter what the other passengers or I needed, no matter when we needed it, the staff would appear, snap their fingers, and . . . presto! It was like having your own personal genie always on hand.


Service on the Four Seasons Jet

Patrizio Cipollini, General Manager of Four Seasons Hotel Firenze, in a pilot’s uniform. Before the Jet left from Pisa, he and members of his staff presented roses to all the ladies.

Sharing experiences enriches the journey

Heading into the journey, I was daunted by the idea of travelling with a group. Would I get tired of being with the other passengers? And what would they be like? Snooty and unfriendly? Affable but clingy?

It turns out that I wasn’t alone in having these concerns.

“I have to admit, before we took our first trip, we were worried that the other people would be aloof,” admitted Robert, a passenger from Virginia. But that wasn’t the case. He and his partner Michael ended up liking the experience and the group so much that they returned for a second trip in less than a year. This fall, they’ll take another one.

Indeed, I discovered that sharing experiences with the other people enriched the journey. I think my sides still hurt from laughing so hard over cocktails with one couple at Four Seasons London. I was invited to another guest’s birthday party in Italy. And seeing a ballerina do a private performance of the exquisite “Dying Swan Ballet” brought tears to my eyes — and did the same for many of my fellow travellers. We all shared a very moving moment that we will remember forever.

Packing is part of the adventure

Before the trip, I fretted endlessly about what I would pack for three weeks away in six places with radically different climates and activities: snow, tropics, safari and so on.

I started strategizing and put together mood boards for the various experiences. I packed, I repacked. I went shopping. I ordered online. I did some more shopping. I thought about what I could buy on the road. (I knew in advance, for instance, that a kaftan would be coming home with me from Dubai.) At one point, I considered hiring a stylist to help me put together my travel wardrobe.

 

And I’ll admit that I even did some last-minute panic shopping when I arrived in London and saw a very sophisticated woman breezing through the Hotel lobby, clad head to toe in white cashmere. I had the Hotel’s Rolls-Royce chauffeur me to Bond Street, where I spent a pretty penny on last-minute wardrobe additions in order to keep up with the group – or at least what I thought the group would be like.

I soon discovered that the cashmere-clad woman wasn’t on the trip — and the rest of the Jet travellers were dressed just like me.

Looking back, I have to laugh. The packing that I initially thought of as simply stressful turned out to be a meaningful part of the journey. It was a way to start the journey long before the jet actually took off.

It’s not all Champagne and caviar … though there’s plenty of that, too

Sure, there’s a private chef who caters to your every need. Sure, there are gala evenings, like the one we spent in Florence, dining with nobility in the villa that their family has owned since 1489. But we didn’t sit down to fine dining, serenaded by violinists and opera singers, twice a day. In fact, some of the simplest meals turned out to be the most memorable.

In Dubai, a group of us toured a residential neighbourhood with Arva Ahmed, an entrepreneurial foodie who owns a cool company called Frying Pan Adventures. She led us through the colourful pathways of her hometown, taking us to Middle Eastern street food spots. One of the highlights was going to an Emirati restaurant where the locals sit on the floor and eat with their hands. She taught us how to use our hands, too – turns out there are several techniques.

In the Serengeti, we went on a walk with the Maasai guides and tasted herbs picked from the ground. We went hunting for truffles in Italy and sampled them fresh from the woods. In the Seychelles, the chefs prepared a traditional Creole rum dinner on the beach where some of the braver passengers and I tried local delicacies, like bat. (Tasted like chicken!)

The beauty of mixing in experiences like this is that they allowed us to immerse ourselves deeply in the culture — and to get to know a country through its unique tastes and flavours.

You won’t miss the things you didn’t do

When I first saw the list of activities, I wanted to do them all. And I worried I would be disappointed every time I skipped something. Luckily, the Four Seasons team encouraged me to avoid overscheduling and to let the experience unfold. As the days went on, I came to realize that each adventure on this journey is orchestrated to be just as dazzling as the others. As for what I missed, it didn’t matter to me because catching up with my fellow passengers and hearing what they did was part of the fun.


Getting ready to drive Formula One in Dubai

Getting ready to drive Formula One in Dubai

You’ll find inspiration in unlikely places

Heading into this trip, I knew that I would have extraordinary experiences, like going on safari in the Serengeti, driving a Formula One race car in Dubai, or having a private viewing of Michelangelo’s David in Florence. They delivered – and then some – with thrilling, exhilarating, send-chills-up-your-spine memories that will last a lifetime.

But I was also moved by the unscheduled moments along the way: In the Seychelles, I went to the gallery of an artist who has been called the modern-day Paul Gauguin. I didn’t expect him to invite me to see his private studio and works in progress.


A woman with a flower in her hair in a plunge pool with a view of the Indian Ocean

Bloom in her suite’s private plunge pool at Four Seasons Resort Seychelles, with a view of the Indian Ocean and the landscape of Mahé

Indeed, another guest told me that some of her favourite moments on this journey were the ones that weren’t in the fine print.

I’ve come to realize that moments of “doing nothing” were just as valuable as the exciting adventures. Watching elephants stroll by the room while I was in the soaking tub at Four Seasons Safari Lodge Serengeti. Sitting in the lobby at Four Seasons Dubai at Jumeirah Beach, having tea and chatting with a staffer about why she moved to UAE. Floating in the infinity pool at Four Seasons Resort Seychelles while the sun sank below the horizon.

As with life itself, some of the most powerful experiences were the unscripted ones, the moments I took with me and will remember forever.

Learn more about the Four Seasons Jet and the extraordinary ways you can see the world >