The Fall Trips You Need to Take

When French philosopher Albert Camus wrote that autumn “is a second spring where every leaf is a flower,” he was onto something.

With the change from summer to fall, this beautiful time of year is perfect for weekend getaways and enjoying the outdoors in its full autumn glory. There’s something uniquely magical about the crisp, cool air, and the experts at Four Seasons know exactly how to help you savour it. Here are seven of our favourite places to visit in the fall to take full advantage of this special time.

 

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Catch a show in Austin

Scorching summer days in the Texas capital give way to perfect weather come autumn, a time of year for getting outdoors. You can easily stroll from Four Seasons Hotel Austin to Zilker Metropolitan Park, a sprawling 358-acre (145-hectare) space along the shores of Lady Bird Lake, and cool off in Barton Springs Pool, which maintains an average temperature of 68°F to 70°F (20°C to 21°C) year round.

At night, join filmgoers in the heart of downtown Austin at Blue Starlite Mini Urban Drive-In, whose two screens showcase a variety of classics and newer releases. You can even go beyond popcorn, soda and candy and order from restaurants that deliver right to your car window.

Since this is the Live Music Capital of the World, you can catch some of Austin’s top musicians playing at the Hotel’s Live Oak lounge. Sip inventive cocktails while listening to live music and taking in some of the best views in the city. On the Hotel’s back lawn, you can also join friends for games including Jenga, ping-pong and cornhole, or simply find a patch of shade in one of the many Adirondack chairs or hammocks to sit back and relax.

Alternatively, you can also play your own music – the Hotel’s Guitar Concierge can arrange for you to borrow a premium guitar to use throughout your visit. Strum away in the comfort of your guest room or on the back lawn, or take it with you to other scenic locales around the city.

Enjoy music and movies in Austin

Cruise the river in Prague

Prepare your palate for an autumn stay at Four Seasons Hotel Prague. Sip a glass of Prosecco aboard the Hotel’s charming wooden boat on the Vltava River. Surrounded by fairy-tale scenery, you’ll see Prague from a different angle as you indulge in your choice of breakfast, lunch or a light snack. Come November, you can also opt for a glass of mulled wine or hot chocolate to keep you warm when the temperature begins to dip.

For an authentic Czech experience, discover a local craft rooted in hundreds of years of tradition: glassblowing. The Hotel’s private car service can whisk you to the world-famous Rückl glass factory in Nizbor, a picturesque village in central Bohemia, only a 45-minute drive from Prague. There, you’ll meet craftsmen and witness the magic of glass engraving. You can even choose to cut or blow glass yourself.

Back at the Hotel, pamper yourself with a personalized treatment at the Spa or enjoy some quality time with your loved one in the private couple’s treatment room, complete with your own private steam room.

Capture the magic in Prague

 

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Take a private helicopter tour in Beijing

Autumn is the best time to explore Beijing, with comfortably cool weather for climbing suburban mountains or people-watching in an outdoor café. The city’s countless attractions include Ditan Park, the Confucian Temple, the Guozijian Museum and, of course, the Great Wall.

From late September to early November is an especially good time to visit, when you can see the iconic landmark framed by rich autumn hues. Four Seasons Hotel Beijing offers two exceptional ways to see the well-preserved Mutianyu section of the Great Wall. Let the Hotel arrange for a private car to take you to Mutianyu and embark on a private guided tour of the incredibly well-preserved section that was originally built in the Northern Qi Dynasty (AD 550–557) but then rebuilt during the Ming Dynasty (AD 1368–1644) to strengthen its defensive potential. During the fall, the surrounding forest-covered mountains turn shades of red and gold. For a bird’s-eye view of it all, the Hotel can also arrange for a private helicopter experience. This adventure begins with a ride to Mutianyu in a private limousine, catered food and snacks, and a breathtaking 15-minute aerial tour of the Great Wall. Afterwards, set out on a hike with an expert guide to take in the wall’s history and architecture up close.

Get a new perspective in Beijing

 

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Revel in fall colours in Kyoto

Kyoto is known for the vibrant colours of its leaves (koyo in Japanese) – especially impressive during the last two weeks of November – making it one of the best fall destinations. Like hanami (cherry blossom viewing) in spring, the Japanese also have a custom called momijigari (red leaf hunting) that was a popular fall activity among the 8th-century aristocracy and continues to this day. While the word specifically references the red leaves of the maple tree that make their appearance each fall, in practice, it means gathering together to see all of the season’s best foliage.

For this special season, the team at Four Seasons Hotel Kyoto has created a map highlighting the best places around the city to witness this beautiful sight. The Concierge recommends visiting Kyoto’s temples at night for a different kind of leaf-peeping experience. A few favourites are Kodai-ji Temple, Entoku-in Temple and Kiyomizu-dera Temple, all in the Higashiyama area and only 20 to 25 minutes by foot from the Hotel.

And last but not least, if you want to take in the rich autumn colours in a quiet and exclusive setting without any crowds, pay a visit to the Hotel’s own Shakusui-en pond garden.

See the colours of Kyoto

Expand your palate in Bogotá

Year-round good weather means there’s never really a bad time to visit Colombia’s capital city, but autumn is the perfect time for unexpected journeys. The best way to discover the magic of Bogotá is to live the experience like a local.

One aspect of the city locals love? Graffiti. For those intrigued by the thriving art scene, Four Seasons Hotel Casa Medina Bogotá can help arrange for a private walking tour to see some of Bogotá’s most notable works. The colourful, towering murals that dot the city make for great Instagram backdrops – but they’re even more incredible when you see them first hand.

To enjoy a different kind of artistry, treat your palate with an unforgettable coffee experience. The Hotel can arrange for an exclusive coffee-tasting session led by local farmers at Cafetal de la Trinidad, a historic Colombian coffee farm located on a scenic hacienda just a couple hours outside the city. Here you’ll learn about the entire coffee-making process, from harvesting to preparation and even how to decipher the different flavours and aromas.

Experience art and coffee in Bogotá

 

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Find serenity in Seoul

With its cool, crisp days; pops of colourful foliage; and seasonal fruits such as apples, pears and persimmon on menus around the city, there’s plenty of reasons why fall is a favourite time of year for locals. Located right in the heart of Seoul, Four Seasons Hotel Seoul is the ideal jumping-off point to explore the seasonal splendour.

Whether you’re a seasoned hiker or just enjoy taking leisurely strolls, the Concierge team can help point you in the right directions to explore Seoul’s abundance of hiking trails. One can’t-miss route for couples is the walk up to N Seoul Tower, also known as Namsan Tower. At the top, you’ll take in some of the best panoramic views in the city – and don’t forget to add your own “love lock” to the thousands of padlocks lovingly placed on the tower’s famous Love Lock Bridge.

As big a city as Seoul is, there are also plenty of opportunities to immerse yourself in nature. The most famous place to see the gold-hued magic of gingko trees in fall is Asan Gingko Tree Road, but for a closer option, the Concierge team recommends a visit to Seoul Forest Park. Be sure to also spend some time at Hill of Wind – the park’s highest point – to gaze at the mesmerizing fields of silver grass dancing in the autumn wind. For something further afield, the Hotel can arrange for an unforgettable day trip to the fairy-tale wonderland of Nami Island, a UNESCO treasure made famous in the Korean drama Winter Sonata.

Back at the Hotel, you’ll have your pick of dining options, from creative Japanese-Korean fusion at Akira Back to regional Cantonese specialties at Yu Yuan. For a nightcap, stop into OUL to sip your way through seasonal drinks that pay homage to Korea’s unique history of libation.

Stroll together in Seoul

Harvest oysters in Boston

They say oysters are best enjoyed in months that contain the letter “r” – which makes fall the perfect time to indulge. At Four Seasons Hotel One Dalton Street, Boston, you can sample some of the freshest oysters around with a unique experience at the historic Island Creek Oysters farm. Located south of the city in Duxbury – and affectionately known as “The Napa Valley of Oysters” – Island Creek Oysters invites you to be an oyster farmer for a day with a private, interactive lesson on their 11-acre farm. You’ll begin in the hatchery to learn about the perfect conditions for oysters to grow and what they eat; then you’ll set out aboard the Nathaniel Winsor, a 27-foot Carolina Skiff, where you’ll learn how to shuck from the experts and hear stories over drinks.

At the end of the day, grab a seat at the farm’s bayfront raw bar for chilled wine or local craft beer, caviar and, of course, oysters. You’ll also be sent home with fresh oysters on ice to enjoy in the comfort of your room back at the Hotel, along with a bottle of champagne.

Explore oyster country in Boston

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Where will you choose to spend your favourite season?

Decorative sculpture in lobby

Iconic Trips You Need to Take This Summer

The endless wait for summer is finally over – so where will you be heading off to this year? Whether you’re looking for adventure, a chance to immerse yourself in the culture of a new city, or a beautiful place to relax and unwind, here are our recommendations for spending carefree summer days and nights in these six iconic destinations.

The months of June, July and August are the dry season in the Serengeti, which means clear, sunny skies and the beginning of one of the greatest shows on earth: The Great Migration.

During this time, a mass of single-minded wildebeest reaches the western and northern parts of Serengeti National Park, crossing the perilous Grumeti and Mara rivers and coming face to face with crocodiles, lions and eager hyenas. “This is a spectacular sight to witness, as millions of animals travel through the park in a clockwise direction,” says Trevor van de Ven, Senior Director of PR and Communications at
Four Seasons Safari Lodge Serengeti. This is also the dry season, he notes, which means that animals are easier to spot as they gather around water sources and the vegetation is less dense.

“With animals – antelope, wildebeest, zebras and large cats – in abundance over this period, a simple half- or full-day safari drive will result in some of the best wildlife sightings the park has to offer,” van de Ven says. And it’s hard to beat the tranquillity and awe of viewing thousands of animals waking at sunrise while you silently soar above them in a hot-air balloon.

Since it is the dry season, herds of elephant, buffalo and other wildlife are more likely to come and quench their thirst at the Lodge’s watering hole while you relax by the pool and watch. The temperate weather of this period is especially comfortable for a day out in safari vehicles, as well as at dawn and dusk. “A stay at the lodge over this time is also not complete without participating in a sunrise yoga session atop a kopje – the rocky outcroppings that dot the plains – or enjoying sundowners and a torchlit barbecue dinner in the bush,” says van de Ven.

See the animals of the Serengeti

While no visit to one of the world’s oldest cities is complete without eyeing its storied dry-land sites, you’d be remiss in visiting Athens without taking time to bask in its seaside splendour.

Standing on the lush Athens Riviera, Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens encompasses 30 hectares (74 acres) of a pine-wreathed peninsula on the Saronic Gulf, just 30 minutes from Athens’ historic core. This stretch of Athenian coastline is marked by serene coves and beaches, and the Hotel claims three pristine stretches of sand connected by a 300-metre (1,000-foot) boardwalk.

Thermal Vouliagmeni Lake, which hovers at 22–29 degrees C (71–84 F) year round, is just a five-minute drive away. “It’s an exceptional sight,” says Concierge Maria Genidounia. “You can swim with small fish or enjoy a picnic surrounded by nature.”

For an aquatic experience that goes deeper, book a full- or half-day island voyage on a vessel from the Hotel’s handsome fleet of powerboats.

“A day cruise to the islands is a must,” Genidounia says. “The nearest island, Aegina, is only 20 minutes away by boat.” Picturesque isles like Paros, Kea and Hydra lie farther afield, and swim stops in the Cyclades are encouraged.

Round out the experience with a feast sourced from the sea. In the waterfront enclave of Glyfada, across Vouliagmeni Bay from the Hotel, Sardelaki is a traditional seaside taverna serving Greek essentials like mussels saganaki, grilled sardines and marinated anchovies in a laid-back, family-friendly setting. For a more debonair atmosphere, opt for nearby Feedel Asador, Genidounia’s pick for modern Greek cuisine.

Explore the Athens Riviera

Summer is one of the best times to visit South Korea – especially the capital city. “Seoul is full of life and excitement, with local performances and cultural events. Prepare to be surrounded by so much beauty and entertainment, it will make you fall in love with the city,” says Sojung Park, Chef Concierge at Four Seasons Hotel Seoul.

One of Park’s top picks is “the country’s premier light show extravaganza” at Banpo Bridge Rainbow Fountain, a 20-minute display that takes place along the Han River several times day and night in season. “It’s an aesthetic feast for the eyes,” she says. Just a quick stroll from the bridge is Banpo Hangang Park, an excellent starting point for a scenic bike ride along the river, or for having a picnic with some chimaek – fried chicken and beer – and enjoying the view.

Park also recommends heading to Hongdae, near Hongik University. It has a youthful college-town vibe, with cafés, galleries, boutiques, art markets and restaurants. “It’s a fascinating place to walk around, especially during the summer, when there are a lot of street performances and busking,” she says.

And from the end of April through June 4 and again in mid-September through October, you can visit the Hangang Moonlight Market, which Park says is one of the trendiest in town and popular among Seoulites. “The night market is always full of surprises,” she says. Head to one of its multiple outdoor locations to sample both local and international street food and dishes from food trucks, shop for handmade crafts, and watch various performances. (Park advises guests to check with the Concierge for the most up-to-date night market details.)

Finally, for a VIP experience worth seeking out any time of year, the Hotel can arrange a private visit to the exclusive Korea Furniture Museum, which is open only by special reservation. “Guests are invited to spend time in this unique space, designed to give you a sense of how Koreans lived in the Kingdom of Joseon, which lasted from 1392 to 1910,” Park says.

Summer like a local in Seoul

North American summer means winter in the Argentinean capital. But it’s a mild winter – highs ordinarily around 17 degrees C (low 60s F), with nights dipping to about 9 C (upper 40s F). The cool but sunny days are perfect for exploring the historic mansions and palaces to be found throughout the city. Paula Pantanali, Concierge Supervisor of Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires, recommends taking a tour of the downtown area, as well as the San Telmo and Recoleta neighbourhoods, in order to appreciate the French-inspired architecture, monuments, bohemian streets, antique shops and art galleries.

If you can, plan your trip in August, springtime in Argentina, when the annual Tango Festival and World Cup takes place. The event includes performances, classes and the championship competition, and there are plenty of local milongas where you can dance the night away. “Milongas are nightclubs where locals get together to practice and learn tango. It is the place to discover and understand why tango plays a key role in Argentine culture,” says Pantanali. Milonga Parakultural in downtown is a local favourite, or head to the famous Marabú, a cabaret founded in 1935 where you can enjoy a live orchestra and a row of musicians playing the bandoneon, an instrument similar to the accordion.

The Hotel can arrange tailor-made tango experiences in this fascinating world with a professional dancer, who can take you to popular dance spots around town.

Dance the night away in Buenos Aires

“The perception of luxury has changed vastly over the years,” says Olga Krylova, Concierge at Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat, A Four Seasons Hotel. “I strongly believe that authenticity is the new gateway to luxury travel.”

Perched atop a rugged cliffside overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, the Hotel is perfectly situated for experiencing the summertime beauty of France’s famed Côte d’Azur. For a quintessential taste of seaside glamour, lounge in a private cabana at its legendary Club Dauphin, enjoying dips in the same saltwater pool frequented by Greta Garbo and Charlie Chaplin. Stay all day and take advantage of the open-air lounge, enjoying Provençal salads and grilled fish accompanied by chilled white wine.

Once you’re fully in relaxation mode, it’s easy to think of the French Riviera as your personal playground. Krylova recommends exploring the coast by boat, stopping to relish a picnic prepared by Executive Chef Yoric Tièche and probing the picturesque coves and hidden swimming spots of the Lérins Islands. Or let the Hotel arrange for you to drive a classic car along the coastline. “Start in Tourette-sur-Loup, famous for its medieval village with its houses forming a rampart around the historic centre,” Krylova says. Be sure to taste the village’s famous violet ice cream, then take the road through the Gorges du Loup en route to Gourdon.

“Immersing yourself in a local culture, heritage, food, places and meeting locals is what will bring you lasting emotions,” Krylova says. One way to go for all at once is by paying a visit to local restaurants. Try La Chaumière, on the high corniche of Nice, known for outstanding meat dishes, prepared on a log fireplace, and an excellent wine list. Or La Corderie, a casual and authentic restaurant on the fishing port of the charming Villefranche-sur-mer.

Pay a visit to the Grimaldi Forum Monaco to and see the “Monet in Full Light” exhibition, now through September, with paintings created during the artist’s stays on the Riviera. It could serve as inspiration when you take up a paintbrush yourself in an immersive watercolour workshop guided by a local artist at the Hotel’s own Villa Rothschild.

At the end of the day, step into the Spa for a therapeutic massage or embark on a personalized wellness journey surrounded by 17 acres of gardens that face the Mediterranean Sea.

Relax in style in Cap-Ferrat

During the summer months, Miami’s tourist crowds thin out, leaving its famous surf, sand and shopping ripe for quiet exploration and relaxation. Spending the day at one of the iconic Cabanas at The Surf Club – the same cabanas where Winston Churchill would often go to paint and relax – is always a favourite activity among guests of Four Seasons Hotel at The Surf Club, and it’s easy to see why. “You get to relax in our furnished and climatized cabanas while enjoying fresh drinks and casual bites along our pristine pools,” says Daniela Trovato, Regional Vice President and General Manager of Four Seasons Hotel and Residences at The Surf Club.

Another must-try summer experience is The Surf Club’s new Sunrise Breakfast Picnics. “Our team sets up a picnic at the beach for you to enjoy breakfast while embracing the magnificent Surfside sunrise,” says Trovato. Later during the day, stop by the Champagne Bar for a cocktail flight: “Whether you prefer tequila, mezcal or other base liquors, our expert bartenders will take you through a cocktail journey paired with small flavour-enhancing bites.” This unique experience can also be enjoyed in the cigar lounge with a cigar from the Club’s curated selection.

Trovato also suggests paying a visit to the world-class Spa, which offers unique and effective treatments by Biologique Recherche that will induce a state of pure bliss.

While in town, make time to see what’s new in Miami’s countless shops and boutiques. “Miami is a shopping destination, and we are very fortunate to have Bal Harbour Shops just minutes away from us as well as Miami Design District close by, both being stellar shopping locations,” Trovato says.

From cruising the Miami canals on a yacht to sitting down for a meal at Chef Thomas Keller’s Michelin-starred The Surf Club Restaurant, moving at your own pace is the key to any vacation. “My favourite thing to do during the summer is to take a bike ride from The Surf Club all the way to South Pointe (the farthest point in South Beach), choose a quiet spot for a quick swim, and then head over to a local restaurant for a sunset aperitivo,” says Trovato. This year, why not hop on one of the Hotel’s custom bicycles to find your own favourite spot along the scenic Surfside trail?

Relish in the Miami Sun

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A Week Well Spent in Bogotá

Globally inspired restaurants, world-class museums, a buzzed-about design scene and plenty of neighbourhoods ripe for exploring – there’s a lot to like about Bogotá, not least its contagious energy. If you’re seeking inspiration for an itinerary, here’s how my family and I tackled the South American city on our last visit.

Friday, 9:30 am: The Best View in Town

It’s difficult to grasp the sprawl of Bogotá until I see it from the top of Cerro de Monserrate, where the altitude is a breathtaking 3,152 metres (10,341 feet). Those who want to earn their view can hike up the hill; others, like us, opt for the toddler-approved choice: a ride on the funicular. Eventually we tear ourselves away from the panorama to look inside the 17th-century church – pilgrims come to it to prostrate themselves before the Altar of the Fallen Christ.

From here, it’s a quick drive to La Candelaria, the colourful historic centre, to visit cultural institutions like the popular Museo de Oro, whose thousands of ancient gold artefacts are glimpses into a pre-Columbian world of extravagance. In an odd juxtaposition, there’s the Museo Botero; Fernando Botero is known for his paintings and sculptures of corpulent figures, many shown from the back.

Friday, 3:00 pm: A Meal to Remember

Ready to be refuelled, we collapse into our seats at lunch-only Prudencia, a light-filled restaurant where Chef Mario Rosero stops by each table to say hello. Luck is on our side: Our 2-year-old son is passed out in his stroller, and he remains so throughout the duration of the leisurely affair. Rosero’s menu changes daily and stars local ingredients in dishes like the melt-in-your-mouth beef rib served with creamed corn and sautéed mustard leaves. Make sure to order the rustic homemade bread, so good we pack the rest to go.

Saturday, 8:30 am: The Hidden Gem

Despite its location right in the middle of the city, the tiny Quinta Camacho neighbourhood feels more like a charming village than part of a bustling metropolis. It’s known for its distinctive architecture – brick Tudor-style houses have been transformed into boutiques, art galleries, restaurants and bakeries such as Brot, where we plot our day over flaky croissants.

On our list of stops: Wilborada 1047 Bookstore, which will make you wish for independent bookshops everywhere; Ba Hué, a concept boutique where men’s and women’s fashions from more than 30 designers are displayed like works of art; and Casa Riegner, a respected gallery that champions contemporary Latin American artists. Our “eat and drink” list is ambitious as well: Guerrero, a casual new sandwich shop; Siete Cabras, for pizzas cooked over firewood; and cocktails at Huerta Coctelería Artesanal, a buzzy bar that incorporates fruits and vegetables into drinks like the Mezcalitico (made with Mezcal Montelobos, elixir of blackberry and ginger, basil, and lemon).

Sunday, 10:00 am: Caffeine and Crafts

On the recommendation of Juan Diego Lopez Verano, a front desk agent at
Four Seasons Hotel Casa Medina Bogotá
, we get a lesson in Colombian coffee at Catación Pública, an educational café in the historic neighbourhood of Usaquen. After sampling beans from three of the country’s 20-plus growing regions, we stroll the Usaquen flea market, open on Sundays only. Learn from our mistake and save suitcase space so you won’t have to leave the traditional woven bags, organic soaps and other handmade crafts behind.

Sunday, 2:30 pm: Escape the City

It takes about 40 minutes of winding up a single-lane mountain road to reach the countryside town of La Calera, a worthwhile half-day trip from the city. After browsing the vendors in the main square and picking up some honey candies and mangosteens for later, we settle at an outdoor table at El Palmar del Café, a no-frills restaurant that serves what I’ve been told is the best ajiaco in the area. This traditional soup – made from different kinds of potato, shredded chicken, half an ear of corn and a mild herb called guasca – is served with avocado and thick cream to stir in. It’s rich and hearty, but somehow doesn’t leave us too full to sample treats from the bakery nearby, Postres Olivar. My personal favourite: the classic almojábana, a dinner roll–shaped bread made from corn flour and a soft, sweet cheese.

Monday, 11:00 am: Downtown Exploration

An hour into our Bogotá Graffiti Tour our guide, Jay, has already imparted a wealth of local knowledge – and not just about the incredible street art that seems to cover almost every surface. We’ve learned that Colombia is responsible for 70 to 90 percent of the world’s emerald market, and that it’s one of the most biodiverse countries on the planet. The tour, which takes place twice a day in English and runs on donations, starts and ends a few blocks from the city’s main square, Plaza de Bolivar, and the historic restaurant La Puerta Falsa, established in 1816. Here, we can’t resist some more ajiaco, plus another Bogotá classic: hot chocolate with cheese. You put the wedge directly into the drink and eat it with a spoon once it melts. Strange, yes, but also strangely delicious.

Tuesday, 9:30 am: A Site to Behold

My son has just licked the wall of a cathedral – but here, an hour north of the city at Catedral de Sal, it’s acceptable behaviour. That’s because the entire Roman Catholic church, hundreds of feet below ground in a salt mine, is constructed out of, you guessed it, salt. Visitors enter this astonishing place through a long, narrow tunnel. A dim, winding path leads to various naves, Stations of the Cross and sculptures of angels aglow in blue and purple lights.

Tuesday, 2:30 pm: The Last Lunch

We’re late for lunch after spending too much time at Bitâcora, an appointment-only design studio that hosts modern art exhibits and sells its own line of textiles in addition to having a hand in innovative projects around the city. (They created the branding for Câscara, which produces single-use biodegradable dishware out of rice husks and corn.) Luckily, our table is still waiting for us at Leo, the highly lauded restaurant from Chef Leonor Espinosa. A wholehearted celebration of Colombian ingredients – the map on the menu traces their origins – the 14 petite but beautiful dishes are a fitting way to end our time in this multifaceted place.

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Cityscape

A Local’s Guide to Mexico City

The first time I visited the bustling metropolis of Mexico City, I was shocked by how green it was. I was constantly stumbling upon parks, often filled with sculptural fountains, native plants, and serene walking paths. It’s also the most colorful place I’ve seen, with buildings painted shockingly bright hues and vibrant food markets hawking produce in every shade of the rainbow. Now that I live here, I’m lucky enough to walk its streets every day. There’s no denying the sprawling city can feel a bit overwhelming. My advice is to tackle it one area at a time—and the following four neighborhoods are a good place to start.


Popular sights around the Coyoacan neighborhood of Mexico City.

Coyoacán

With its narrow cobblestoned streets, bustling main squares, and centuries-old buildings, Coyoacán feels worlds away from Mexico City—and until 1928, when it was officially swallowed up by the city sprawl, it actually was its own municipality. (It was also the home base of Hernán Cortés during the Spanish conquest of the Aztecs.) Most visitors come to the neighborhood (where I happen to live) to see one thing—the Frida Kahlo Museum—but there are countless reasons to linger.

My perfect Sunday? Whiling away the afternoon in the neighboring Jardin Centenario and Plaza Jardin Hidalgo, where benches are filled with hand-holding couples, families attend services at the San Juan Bautista Church, and children scatter among the musicians, clowns, and vendors hawking balloons and other toys. I always make sure to arrive hungry, grabbing a patio seat at the always-packed Los Danzantes for the duck tacos and roasted bone marrow, or savoring seafood tostadas from the frenetic Mercado de Coyoacan.

For something sweet, meander a few blocks off the square to Ruta de la Seda, an organic bakery known for its Kioto (matcha cake); at about $5 for a slice, it’s a splurge by Mexican standards, but worth it. From there, nothing beats a stroll down Avenida Francisco Sosa, lined with colorful, colonial-era architecture, restaurants, and cultural centers. I’ll take a right onto Calle Salvador Novo and head to one of the entrances of Viveros de Coyoacán, a forest-like public park that’s also a nursery for trees that are planted all over the city.


Popular sights around the Polanco neighborhood of Mexico City.

Polanco

While Polanco is often called the “Beverly Hills” of Mexico City, I’ve found plenty of reasons to spend time in the neighborhood beyond its concentration of high-end shops lining Avenida Presidente Masaryk. Number one? The restaurants. Be sure to make reservations at the small, light-filled Quintonil, which is No. 22 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurant list and run by Jorge Vallejo, a protégée of Enrique Olvera (whose equally famed restaurant Pujol is just a few blocks away). A short stroll east is the chocolatería Que Bo!; with its jewel-colored truffles, macarons, and other treats, it’s my idea of dessert heaven.

You can also get a double dose of culture in Polanco. When I’m in the area, I’ll walk over to the Museo Soumaya just to gaze at its Instagram-ready exterior of shiny aluminum tiles in the shape of a woman’s curvy figure. The museum is owned by the foundation of Mexican billionaire Carlos Slim, and it houses his personal collection of Picassos, Monet, and the like—though I always make a beeline for the top floor, home to Rodin sculptures. And right across a large courtyard, Museo Jumex hosts rotating exhibits of contemporary and often boundary-pushing art.

As for the aforementioned shopping, Onora Casa—known for its modern-day takes on traditional artisan crafts like brocaded pillows from Chiapas and lacquered wood serving spoons from Pajapan—is one of those boutiques that makes you wish you could buy one (or two) of everything. And for a mix of independent Mexican brands under one roof, the IKAL concept store never disappoints.


Popular sights around the Centro district of Mexico City.

Centro Histórico

A visit to the city’s historic district requires a lot of patience—unless you do as I’ve learned and arrive early, perhaps even for an 8 a.m. breakfast at the classic El Cardenal. You’ll get to wander the streets before they’re packed with locals shopping from vendors selling packets of T-shirts, light bulbs, and other everyday items, and see the famed Diego Rivera mural inside the Palacio Nacional before the tourists line up. The Zócalo, or main square, is a hive of activity (especially on weekends)—and where you’ll find the ruins of Templo Mayor, the most important temple in the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan (now Mexico City).

Another highlight is the Palacio de Bellas Artes, a sight to behold from the inside and out. I’m a sucker for views, and one of the best of the cultural center is from the tiny outdoor café on the eighth floor of the Sears department store. Or, for a 360-degree bird’s-eye look at the neighborhood and beyond, I recommend going to the top of the 44-story Torre Latinoamericana. And on my last visit, my Uber driver pointed out the Palacio de Correos de Mexico, which is quite possibly the world’s most beautiful post office (by the same Italian architect who designed the Bellas Artes).


Sights around the Condesa neighborhood in Mexico City.

Condesa

If I ever have an afternoon free just to wander, you’ll often find me in this picturesque, tree-lined neighborhood near the Four Seasons Mexico City. Its streets are brimming with restaurants, bars, and boutiques, not to mention hundreds of Art Deco buildings. Springtime is especially lovely, when the purple-flowered jacarandas are in bloom. My wanderings will inevitably lead me down the pedestrian-only center of Calle Amsterdam. I’ll turn left on Calle Ozuluama for a stop at Maque, where I’ll vow to try something different among the fresh-baked pastries before settling on my usual concha to enjoy across the street in leafy Parque México.

A few blocks west of the park, the vintage shop Void is always fun to sift through; you may uncover treasures like a Chanel tweed jacket, Dior floral dress, or 1950s bellbottoms. If I’m there long enough for the day to turn into night—and I’m in the mood for Japanese food—I’ll have a light dinner at Izakaya Kura (just north of Parque España and technically in neighboring Roma Norte). Another favorite is chef Javier Plascenia’s surf-and-turf MeroToro, where standout dishes include the ceviche tostada and braised lamb.


Four Seasons Hotel Mexico City

Where to Stay

It’s been two years since the Four Seasons Hotel Mexico City emerged from a head-to-toe renovation, and the property is still fresher than ever. Rooms are done up in soothing shades of beige, dark wood, and pops of maroon, and feel sophisticated without being stuffy. And the spacious marble bathrooms are like your own personal spa. But my favorite part is the grand inner courtyard, a tasteful jungle of greenery complete with an expansive patio. By day, it’s a bright and airy place to sip coffee and read the paper; come night, it transforms into a romantic oasis, with trees that twinkle with lights and a fountain that becomes a fire pit. It’s also where you’ll find the award-winning Fifty Mils bar and the indoor/outdoor Zanaya restaurant, known for its coastal Mexican food. (Don’t miss the Zarandeado fish, cooked over fire on a special oven custom-built in the kitchen.)

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